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Old 10-26-2011, 04:22 PM   #11
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Not to be a downer or anything, but this is a VERY bad idea. Not only are you overloading your breaker panel but you are also risking your life and property

If there is a fault in your line to your spa panel you have NO protection what so ever and the panel will feed the fault endlessly
and if your house burns down the insurance company WILL NOT pay the claim
No so. The backplane that I hooked up to is on the protected side of the panels master breaker.
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Old 10-26-2011, 07:36 PM   #12
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Yea my bad, 200 amps is nothing dont worry about it

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Old 10-26-2011, 07:47 PM   #13
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Yea my bad, 200 amps is nothing dont worry about it
It's called a tap and is fine if done properly. There is not enough info to know if that is the case here.

Edit...btw, I would go the tandem route as suggested above.
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Old 10-26-2011, 08:28 PM   #14
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Personally If I where you, I'd hire an electrician to upgrade your service to a 200amp service. I have a 1100sf house too,and had mine upgraded before I moved in. $120 for the permit, and $1350 for the electrician. Money well spent if you ask me.

With all the energy hungry stuff in a modern house hold, you might have trouble brewing if someone is in the kitchen cooking and doing laundry...and watching TV with 150amp service. Also then you can have the electrician hook up the spa panel where you want it.

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Old 10-26-2011, 09:05 PM   #15
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OK, so I’ve been thinking about this, and I think it may be simpler to skip the spa panel and just add a 30 amp 2 pole GFCI to the breaker panel and wire the 10/4 cable directly to the breaker. I know the GFCI breakers are pricy, but if I have to buy a 50 amp 2 pole breaker and run 6AWG wire to the spa panel, the 30 amp GFCI breaker solution with no spa panel would cost about the same, I think.

Here’s the GFCI breaker I’ve been looking at – let me know if this would not work for my plan.
http://www.mrsupply.com/murray-circu...brand-new.html

So here’s a repost of the breaker box picture, with my plan below it (assuming I decide to tackle this project on my own.)



STEP 1: Turn off the main breaker and remove the panel cover

STEP 2: Test the breakers with a multi-meter to make sure there is no juice flowing thru the lower panel

STEP 3: Replace 4 of the 15 amp breakers with 2 of the tandem breakers linked in post 7 to make room in the panel for the GFCI breaker

STEP 4: Install the 2 pole 30 amp GFCI breaker. Connect the GFCI pigtail to the neutral/ground bar.

STEP 5: Knock out one of the bottom breaker panel knockouts. Cut a 4 prong dryer receptacle sized hole in the drywall next to a stud about 6” beneath the breaker panel. Feed 10/4 cable thru the drywall hole and into the panel. Secure the cable with a NM clamp. The cable I’m looking at using is linked here (yes, it’s expensive):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/75-SOOW-10-4...2#ht_699wt_952

STEP 6: Inside the breaker box, remove the 10/4 cable sleeving up to the clamp. Wire the cable’s 2 hot leads and 1 neutral lead to the GFCI breaker. Wire the cable’s ground wire to the neutral/ground bar.

STEP 7: Below the breaker box, cut the 10/4 cable long enough to run thru a gang box and wire it to a 4 prong dryer receptacle mounted beneath the breaker panel. Wire the remaining cable to a 4 prong dryer plug. The cable will be unrolled out to the brew shed for a brew session, and plugged into the brewery control panel with a locking plug.

Is there anything in my steps that looks wrong/stupid? I feel confident that I can do this, but I want to make sure it’s to code and safe. If either criteria are not being met I won’t do it. I’m not going to build my control panel until I’m certain I have a safe way to power it up.

Thanks in advance for your input.

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Old 10-26-2011, 09:39 PM   #16
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Looks pretty good. For step 5 you may want to consider a surface mount receptacle. It will be easier than cutting in a recessed box. Also some 10/3 NM cable will be easier to work with between the panel and the receptacle.

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Old 10-26-2011, 10:08 PM   #17
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I see 2 220v breakers on the top, why not piggy back to one of them? I would think one is for the kitchen stove & one for the dryer. As long as the appliance isnt in use while you brew you should be OK. Run the 10/3 out to the shed and connect it in a sub panel for a shut off switch.When you brew just throw the switch. Bury the cable in pvc conduit to protect it & your done. Just my 2 cents ,ask an electrician. good luck cheers

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Old 10-26-2011, 10:25 PM   #18
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I see 2 220v breakers on the top, why not piggy back to one of them? I would think one is for the kitchen stove & one for the dryer. As long as the appliance isnt in use while you brew you should be OK. Run the 10/3 out to the shed and connect it in a sub panel for a shut off switch.When you brew just throw the switch. Bury the cable in pvc conduit to protect it & your done. Just my 2 cents ,ask an electrician. good luck cheers
I had thought of that, but can pretty much guarantee it's not to code. There's actually 3 220 breakers in there now, a 25 amp for the A/C, a 30 amp for the dryer, and a 50 amp for the stove. The problem is I brew on Saturdays when the wife is home and during the summer the A/C will likely be on, she'll be doing laundry and probably have something cooking on the stove.
I know there are shortcuts that can be taken to save some $$, but I'm looking to learn how to do this the correct way and as safely as possible.

Thanks for the thought though.
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Old 10-26-2011, 10:29 PM   #19
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Looks pretty good. For step 5 you may want to consider a surface mount receptacle. It will be easier than cutting in a recessed box. Also some 10/3 NM cable will be easier to work with between the panel and the receptacle.
Good idea on the surface mount receptacle.
Is 10/3 NM basically Romex, and does it have a ground? Can I get shorter lengths at HD or Blowes?

Thanks
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Old 10-26-2011, 10:34 PM   #20
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I originally looked at a similar option (i.e. long cord with receptacle), but I'm pretty sure the wife would have hated the giant cord hanging under the breaker panel.

What about the following?

1. Run #6 THHN wire to run from the GFI breaker to your gang box. Pretty cheap at $1.30/ft at HD.

2. Mount one of these receptacles on your gang box: (http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical-...atalogId=10053)

3. Use an RV extension cord like this to your control box:
http://www.elecordset.com/moreinfo.a...ault.aspx&ai=M

Just a thought. . . and might save you some dough.

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