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Old 01-05-2011, 01:01 AM   #191
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What are the disadvantages/advantages compared to the XLR connections described for Kal's electricbrewery? Both options seem very similar and about the same cost (cheap).
The only advantage is that since you order it with your PID, temp probe, SSR, Heat Sink, and in my case, Timer, there is little if any extra charge for shipping.
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Old 01-05-2011, 01:05 AM   #192
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For what it's worth, I prefer the XLRs as they're beefier and XLRs (by their nature) are meant to be tough/roadworthy/disconnected/reconnected continuously.

What you use at the control panel however probably isn't that critical since you rarely ever disconnect there. At least I don't! The ones I disconnect are at the kettle end every time I clean the boil kettle or mash/lauter tun. At that end it's worth having a much smaller disconnect at that end and XLRs are not small.

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Old 01-05-2011, 11:30 AM   #193
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for the pause switch, did you just use a 2 position selector switch? Where did you place it, next to the reset button? I am drawing up my panel tonight and might add one

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Old 01-05-2011, 01:38 PM   #194
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Hi Milldoggy, check out post #151. I won't be home in time tonight to get you a more current picture, showing all the tags and such, but this one shows all the switch locations. You can see the reset button to the right of the timer, and the pause 2 position selector directly above. The alarm light and buzzer are located above the timer, and the element light and switch to the left. Since I used Kal's design to build a RIMS vs HERMS setup, I only have one PID, so I bought the larger one to fill out the panel better. All of my 2 position selectors are the same, I bought a box of ten.

BTW: the alarm buzzer also flashes, so you don't necessarily need the alarm light if you are hampered for space in the panel, but it does add to the cool factor so I'm glad I put it in.

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Old 01-05-2011, 01:49 PM   #195
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One more thing. If anyone else is building a RIMS version and thinks they can get away without a selector switch and mechanical relay to kill all power to the element since they don't have to worry about firing two elements at once, note Kal's warning that SSR's are notorious for "leaking" small amounts of power. When my selector switch for the element is in the "on" position, there is enough power leaking through the SSR to faintly light the element light.

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Secondaries - Sunday Night Hoppy Pale Ale
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Bottled: Oaked Bourbon Porter
Planned: Baltic Porter
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Old 01-05-2011, 02:02 PM   #196
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Thanks, I will see if I can fit it tonight. just sucks, ordered all my switches already, hate to pay all the shipping for one switch

I did order the switches with the yellow NC/NO blocks with the plasitc mounts, I guess I could replace them all with the nice metal tele... switchs.

Might skip it for now and add it later if I want it, not to hard to cut one 22mm hole and wire it up.

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Old 01-05-2011, 03:03 PM   #197
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One more thing. If anyone else is building a RIMS version and thinks they can get away without a selector switch and mechanical relay to kill all power to the element since they don't have to worry about firing two elements at once, note Kal's warning that SSR's are notorious for "leaking" small amounts of power. When my selector switch for the element is in the "on" position, there is enough power leaking through the SSR to faintly light the element light.
Yup. I noticed this as well. This is one of the reasons why the 240V element lights are *directly* wired across the heating elements and not done some indirect way. For safety reasons you see exactly what's going on.

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Old 01-13-2011, 01:17 AM   #198
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Well, I've actually started working on building this control panel over the last couple of days. Here are some shots of the progress I've made so far. I'm sure some of this will look familiar...Notice the mess I've made of our kitchen table (my wife is actually being patient with me still, little does she know I've still got a few more weeks until its done)



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Old 01-13-2011, 01:42 AM   #199
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plate of fruit is awesome. nice work, looks like you need the notchs on the amp/volt meter still

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Old 01-13-2011, 02:37 AM   #200
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Nice work, looks good! Which timer did you go with?

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