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Old 01-03-2011, 02:34 AM   #181
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By far, the build WILL require the person to be meticulous and conscious. Good luck, it is hard to find. It took me 5 years to build a good team for our business.
Agreed 100%. Which is why I'm looking for people with prior experience in this field, not just people who want to "help out". I'm incredibly fussy about this stuff and want to make sure it's done right.

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Old 01-04-2011, 12:37 AM   #182
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So, I'm working on building the temp probes right now and I must say that this is no easy task. That expandable sleeving is a pain to work with! I'm just going to do one layer I think simply because I don't want to mess with the sleeving more than I have to

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Old 01-04-2011, 12:42 AM   #183
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So, I'm working on building the temp probes right now and I must say that this is no easy task. That expandable sleeving is a pain to work with! I'm just going to do one layer I think simply because I don't want to mess with the sleeving more than I have to
Really? Are you sure you got the same sizes I recommend? I don't remember it being very difficult given that the temp probe cables aren't very long. Getting it on was fairly easy and then I used heat shrink wrap to hold it in place to have nice clean edges.

I did two layers of sleeving just to give it more weight. I'm sure 1 would probably be fine too.



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Old 01-04-2011, 01:41 AM   #184
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someone posted a nice wire diagram for this, but I could not find it

Edit - Found it
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/asl...wiring-207860/


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I think I've got it figured out, but if anyone who bought the Auber timer vs the Omega timer can let me know how they've wired it, that'd be great. For now, I am following Kal on everything up to the timer connections. On the timer connections I will run the hot lead into the timer (#10), jumping the hot lead to the relay output (#8). I will then run a wire from the other side of the relay output (#7) to the alarm switch. Then I will run a neutral wire into the timer (#9), and jump to the buzzer and light. The reset button will be wired to #1 and #4 and I also installed a switch for pause, which will be wired to #2 and #4. Unlike Kal's setup, I am not jumping the neutral to the reset button. I think Kal needs to do this as the reset on the Omega timer needs current running through it to work. The Auber ASL-51 generates a small current off of both #1 and #2, so you can direct wire it to the common on #4.
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Last edited by milldoggy; 01-04-2011 at 02:16 AM. Reason: found it
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Old 01-04-2011, 02:59 AM   #185
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Well, I bought the parts as listed from your site. It wasn't terribly hard I suppose...I just had to kind of shimmy the sleeving along the length of the cable to get it on. Once it was on it was pretty easy to do the rest.
Here's the progress I made on the cables tonight. I haven't added the XLR connectors yet...
I went from this

to this

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Old 01-04-2011, 03:43 AM   #186
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Originally Posted by hatfieldenator View Post
So, I'm working on building the temp probes right now and I must say that this is no easy task. That expandable sleeving is a pain to work with! I'm just going to do one layer I think simply because I don't want to mess with the sleeving more than I have to
It was a little tricky to get started, but I did mine on Saturday and got both layers on, soldered the auber connector on the other end (I went with their stock quick disconnect vs what Kal used) and heat shrinked both ends to finish it off. I love the heft and finish of the cord (I went black/blue same as Kal) and the stainless wire rope, when looped through the clamps at both ends and heat shrinked in place, acts as additional strain relief. Great design by Kal. Like everything else in his build, NASA quality.

I ran out of MAP gas for my torch, which I normally use for heat shrink tubing. For those of you contemplating obtaining a heat gun, a candle at a careful distance from the flame does the charm.

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someone posted a nice wire diagram for this, but I could not find it

Edit - Found it
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/asl...wiring-207860/
Thanks, I finished it this weekend and mine is similar, although I also wired in the pause switch, by wiring #2 and #4 to a selector switch. After playing with it for a bit, I can't imagine not having the pause switch. Obviously you can use the tiny one on the face of the instrument itself, but that's no fun.
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Old 01-04-2011, 03:59 AM   #187
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Nice work hatfieldenator! I still find it really freaky seeing people build stuff hat looks identical to mine. I guess I still find it strange that anyone would want to follow in my footsteps.

Kal

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Old 01-04-2011, 04:10 AM   #188
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It was a little tricky to get started, but I did mine on Saturday and got both layers on, soldered the auber connector on the other end (I went with their stock quick disconnect vs what Kal used) and heat shrinked both ends to finish it off.
What is the stock quick disconnect? What part number is that?
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Old 01-04-2011, 01:32 PM   #189
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What is the stock quick disconnect? What part number is that?
Part #RTDCON

It's in the last category on the left of the home page. Works like a charm.

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...roducts_id=118
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Old 01-05-2011, 12:30 AM   #190
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Part #RTDCON

It's in the last category on the left of the home page. Works like a charm.

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...roducts_id=118
What are the disadvantages/advantages compared to the XLR connections described for Kal's electricbrewery? Both options seem very similar and about the same cost (cheap).
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