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-   -   How to build a control panel (part 1) (http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/how-build-control-panel-part-1-a-199643/)

pola0502ds 03-21-2011 01:09 PM

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I have a question about my control panel in regardings to my PID and heating element.

My system is 120v with 1 heating element that is used in a RIMS tube. On my control panel, there is a PID and below it is a on/off switch and below that is a on/off switch for the alarm.

My question relates to how should I wire it so that the PID and element gets power.

There is also a master on/off switch that powers up everying, should that switch be wired in a way so that when i turn it on, it powers up my PID (and timer)? Or should it be wired in such a way that when i turn the switch on, the PID will not power until i turn the switch on that is below the PID? My concern is that if I do it this way, when i turn the PID on the element will fire. If i wire in a way that when I turn the master power on, the PID will light up and the switch below the PID will act as a element selector so the only way the element can fire is if this switch is turned to the on position. But then again, i thought the element won't fire because I have the PID and SSR?

Maybe I don't understand how the PID, SSR, and temp probe work? Since I am using it for a RIMS tube, the only time the element needs to fire is when I reach my target temp and then I turn off my burner, kick on the RIMS tube to hold that temp for a desired amount of time.


pola0502ds 04-20-2011 12:27 PM

1 Attachment(s)

The posting below was also posted in the electric brewery forum as well.

Hello All,

I have a bunch of panel tags to get rid of.. I placed my first order for them through signs, banners, and tags and 7 of them came in wrong. I just got my replacements yesterday and not only did they replace the 7 that were wrong but they replaced my whole order. I don't know why they did that but I now have a bunch of extra tags. I'm not selling these, i'm just giving them away. If you have any beer or brewery related stuff that you may have extra of, I will trade for them as well. If not, I will just give them away.

Just post here what you want and if you have anything for trade. First come first serve.

The ones that were wrong are the "ON - OFF" tags. The lettering needed to be center aligned but is left aligned. These tags are for a RIMS system so thats why they don't match up to what you see on Kals panel. I also labeled my pumps #1 and #2 so down the road if I upgrade or change something the tags are not wrong.


joety 04-02-2013 04:07 AM

3 Attachment(s)

JayMac, I built the panel you describe, albeit for 20a. If you look at the pics, I have one in-line fuse for the lower amp stuff which allows me to use thinner guage wire, and one for the higher amp stuff (the fuse box). I did use a contactor for the main power as well as the SSR. I think you're a little confused and not sure if Kal's response will make sense to you. The contactor for the SSR is wired to be turned on/off from a switch on the panel so you can cut power to the heating element without shutting off the whole panel. When you start brewing you'll understand why this is helpful. It is not used to turn on/off the heating element to control the temp, that's what the SSR is for. When the contactor is off, the PID will attempt to fire the SSR (and thus the element) and no power will actually go through the element. When it's on its like it doesn't exist. The PID will fire the SSR and element rapidly as it tries to control the temp.

I hope this helps. I wish I had a good schematic of my setup but I can't even find my rough drawings and after looking at Kal's first rate diagrams they would not impress.


joety 04-02-2013 04:07 AM

3 Attachment(s)

JayMac, I built the panel you describe, albeit for 20a. If you look at the pics, I have one in-line fuse for the lower amp stuff which allows me to use thinner guage wire, and one for the higher amp stuff (the fuse box). I did use a contactor for the main power as well as the SSR. I think you're a little confused and not sure if Kal's response will make sense to you. The contactor for the SSR is wired to be turned on/off from a switch on the panel so you can cut power to the heating element without shutting off the whole panel. When you start brewing you'll understand why this is helpful. It is not used to turn on/off the heating element to control the temp, that's what the SSR is for. When the contactor is off, the PID will attempt to fire the SSR (and thus the element) and no power will actually go through the element. When it's on its like it doesn't exist. The PID will fire the SSR and element rapidly as it tries to control the temp.

I hope this helps. I wish I had a good schematic of my setup but I can't even find my rough drawings and after looking at Kal's first rate diagrams they would not impress.


joety 04-02-2013 04:07 AM

3 Attachment(s)

JayMac, I built the panel you describe, albeit for 20a. If you look at the pics, I have one in-line fuse for the lower amp stuff which allows me to use thinner guage wire, and one for the higher amp stuff (the fuse box). I did use a contactor for the main power as well as the SSR. I think you're a little confused and not sure if Kal's response will make sense to you. The contactor for the SSR is wired to be turned on/off from a switch on the panel so you can cut power to the heating element without shutting off the whole panel. When you start brewing you'll understand why this is helpful. It is not used to turn on/off the heating element to control the temp, that's what the SSR is for. When the contactor is off, the PID will attempt to fire the SSR (and thus the element) and no power will actually go through the element. When it's on its like it doesn't exist. The PID will fire the SSR and element rapidly as it tries to control the temp.

I hope this helps. I wish I had a good schematic of my setup but I can't even find my rough drawings and after looking at Kal's first rate diagrams they would not impress.



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