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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > How to build a 5 gal, 110v eBIAB kettle
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Old 09-25-2012, 10:51 PM   #51
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Well I'm in college and plan to go to law school so for the next few years, I'll be on the move fairly regularly. I'm not going to invest in a system that requires anything more than a normal outlet, and I'd *really* like to make sure that I could keep using this regardless of what rental property I may be in next year. Is it a safe bet that anywhere will have 20A? Or do older houses have less? 2 1650Watt elements would draw 13.75 amps each, meaning they could be run on two separate 15amp circuits, right? Then I imagine I could sit the rig on my counter or somewhere near an outlet, plug in one element there, and run an extension cord to another outlet on a different circuit, right? I'd like the 2,000watt elements for faster heating and *possibly* doing larger batches down the road, but I'd also obviously like it to be compatible EVERYWHERE, not just some houses.

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Old 09-26-2012, 03:16 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by Derick_Z View Post
Well I'm in college and plan to go to law school so for the next few years, I'll be on the move fairly regularly. I'm not going to invest in a system that requires anything more than a normal outlet, and I'd *really* like to make sure that I could keep using this regardless of what rental property I may be in next year. Is it a safe bet that anywhere will have 20A? Or do older houses have less? 2 1650Watt elements would draw 13.75 amps each, meaning they could be run on two separate 15amp circuits, right? Then I imagine I could sit the rig on my counter or somewhere near an outlet, plug in one element there, and run an extension cord to another outlet on a different circuit, right? I'd like the 2,000watt elements for faster heating and *possibly* doing larger batches down the road, but I'd also obviously like it to be compatible EVERYWHERE, not just some houses.
Yes. Worst case you could plug one into the Kitchen and one into the Bathroom GFI's and use an extension cord.

I brewed at a friends house with this kettle and did just that. Worked, you just have an extension cord to deal with.
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Old 09-26-2012, 03:24 PM   #53
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Yes. Worst case you could plug one into the Kitchen and one into the Bathroom GFI's and use an extension cord.

I brewed at a friends house with this kettle and did just that. Worked, you just have an extension cord to deal with.
I actually have two 25' 12g. ext cords that are wired into a double gang box that has two switched outlets (one per cord). I plug those cords into outlets on either side of my basement. One was for a water softener that's no longer in use and the other is for the washing machine. My breaker box has them labeled and using christmas lights I was able to verify when I tripped the breaker, that I had the right outlet.

I use a 1500w and a 1650w element. I put the 1650 into the 20A outlet and the 1500 in a 15A outlet. Eventually I'll extend those outlets with Romex and not have to use extension cords. The current cords only reach so far anyway and thus I have to put my HLT somewhere I'd rather not as it interferes with access to the sink (it's above and to the left, but still kinda "in the way" when I have the hose attached to run off strike/sparge water).
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Open log Fermenting and gas-can secondary?? I am planning my next brew right now!!
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Old 09-26-2012, 03:59 PM   #54
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And I suppose if I only have access to one 20A circuit, there's nothing I can do? Some apartments I've been looking at for next year are a little older so I may call and ask about the circuitry. I'd assume they've got at least 2 20amp circuits per unit, but I'm not really sure..

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Old 09-26-2012, 05:54 PM   #55
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And I suppose if I only have access to one 20A circuit, there's nothing I can do? Some apartments I've been looking at for next year are a little older so I may call and ask about the circuitry. I'd assume they've got at least 2 20amp circuits per unit, but I'm not really sure..
Typically the Kitchen and bathrooms are each on their own 15-20A circuit as the appliances that are used in there (blenders, food processors, hair dryers, etc.) consume a fair amount of power. I'd be somewhat surprised if an apartment was on just one 20A circuit unless it was a studio.

You can always do partial boil or smaller batches. You CAN boil water with one single element, but it will take longer. I've boiled 5g. with my 1650w by itself, so a 3-4g. batch would be possible, or shoot for a higher OG, more IBU's and dilute. Software can help you do that.
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Open log Fermenting and gas-can secondary?? I am planning my next brew right now!!
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Old 01-05-2013, 10:03 PM   #56
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So, I'm a little confused here. You have listed 1" Stainless Steel Locknuts for kettle insulation but aren't water heater elements an 1 1/4"?

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Old 01-05-2013, 10:29 PM   #57
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I'd still like to see the controller in detail if possible, ordering everything to make this setup today.

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Old 01-05-2013, 10:56 PM   #58
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So, I'm a little confused here. You have listed 1" Stainless Steel Locknuts for kettle insulation but aren't water heater elements an 1 1/4"?
I followed the parts list exactly and it worked so the 1,650 watt element is 1".
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Old 01-05-2013, 11:12 PM   #59
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1" NPT for element and lock nut. OD of element threads is approx 1.25".

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Old 01-08-2013, 01:14 AM   #60
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I have a rather dumb question. Well maybe not, well see.

So, I'm thinking of attaching my element this way and was wondering about grounding the element. If I don't want to solder the wire (because I don't have the tools available) could I just screw in a any old screw and attach the grounding wire to that on the inside. In most conduit boxes it looks like the grounding is just a screw on the inside, can I just recreate this or am I probably going to kill myself?

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