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Old 02-23-2012, 11:16 PM   #31
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With the heating elements at the bottom of the pot, how do you stir the LME to keep from burning against those elements? Is there a way to mount high heat density heating elements to the bottom exterior of a pot?



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Old 02-23-2012, 11:27 PM   #32
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You could mount through the bottom allowing you to stir around it. Just need a hole thru the surface it rests on



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Open log Fermenting and gas-can secondary?? I am planning my next brew right now!!
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Old 02-24-2012, 05:14 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by looneybomber View Post
With the heating elements at the bottom of the pot, how do you stir the LME to keep from burning against those elements? Is there a way to mount high heat density heating elements to the bottom exterior of a pot?
My first brew in this kettle was a 9lb LME recipe.

I heated 6.5 gal of water (5.5 gal batch) to about 170-180 and drained enough into my 1 gallon pitcher to mix in half of the LME. I then stirred that into the kettle. I added another 3/4 gallon to my pitcher and mixed in the rest of the LME, dumped into the kettle and brought to a boil.

No scorching or anything.
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Old 02-24-2012, 06:17 PM   #34
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You can add extract near the very end of the boil to minimize carmelizing. It is fine that way and can actually produce a more clear beer.

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Open log Fermenting and gas-can secondary?? I am planning my next brew right now!!
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Old 02-27-2012, 08:10 PM   #35
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(2) total Type 304 Stainless STL Locknut 1” NPS

http://www.mcmaster.com/#stainless-steel-hose-fittings/=g9xuv3
i found everything except the locknut...can you fix your link or give a part number?
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Old 02-27-2012, 08:29 PM   #36
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http://www.mcmaster.com/#4464K586

There you go. Sorry bout that.
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Old 04-12-2012, 05:08 PM   #37
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Fantastic walk through! I like that this design allows the use of 110V while skipping some of the complexity of other electric builds. I'll probably even skip the weldless kit since I still use an immersion chiller and siphon which will make this design even simpler.

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Old 04-12-2012, 06:29 PM   #38
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I essentially did this with a 32qt. Aluminum stockpot ($27 on instawares.com), two ULWD Camco 1500W elements (~$15 each, they are only 4" long) and some pvc conduit junction boxes. Total cost was close to $100 because the 12g. extension cord I had to buy to get to my two dedicated outlets. I plan to re-wire those outlets so I don't need extension cords.

Oh, I wired the cords into a double gang switch box so I can switch the elements on and off individually without unplugging them. Takes both to roll a boil but some times I turn one off to slow down sparge water if mash isn't quite done, or to control a very full boil.

I love this setup. Brewing in the basement, cheap, no noxious gasses or open flames.

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Open log Fermenting and gas-can secondary?? I am planning my next brew right now!!
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Old 04-13-2012, 01:28 AM   #39
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This setup has been working great so far.

Last brew day I had to do 2 brews, so I decided to mash in a cooler while I was heating strike water in the kettle for the 2nd brew. I'll tell you, that is the way to go if you don't mind moving a little water around. You can skip a PID completely because the cooler is so efficient at maintaining temps.

After the strike water was heated to 190 for the 2nd brew (heated extra high to allow for cooling off until I got the first batch out of the cooler and back into the kettle) I drained grains and water both into the kettle with bag inside and mashed out like normal.

I think I am going to use this method for future brews. Even though it isn't technically BIAB anymore, I have the ability to mash in a cooler and not have to worry about a stuck sparge.

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Old 04-14-2012, 03:46 AM   #40
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Is there a good solid build thread for the controller? or a post number for a build int he brutus thread? I looked through it a bit but I'm having trouble finding a good plan for the controller.



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