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Old 07-31-2011, 01:49 PM   #1
lonepalm
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Default Holes for heating elements?

I built some heatsticks for first electric boil...I am ready to install them permanently in the keggle.

I have an electrician at work that is going to help me punch the holes but I just really want to make sure we do the right size.

Planning on using 2 2000w 120v sticks. I was able to get them up to a boil in 30 minutes from 75 degree water. Then unplugged 1 to hold the boil, worked flawlessly.

So from what I am reading is hole size of 1 1/4". I have attached a link with the element i am using from Home Depot. If anyone has used this please let me know.

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202733441/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

Thanks
JR

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Old 07-31-2011, 02:13 PM   #2
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I used a 1 1/4 chassis punch and it was snug as a bug with my camco. Make sure the element is a 1 " thread, not 1 3/8. If you are going to weld a coupler, a 1" coupler is 1.5" wide.

If you want to see a detailed step by step, check out Kals TheElectricBrewery.com. Everything you need is there.

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Old 07-31-2011, 02:15 PM   #3
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1 1/4" is perfect size for the heating elements. I used the metal cutting hole saws to cut all my holes and it worked great. Most on here probably use the GreenLee 1-1/4" chassis/radio punch. If you use the hole saw just make sure your kettle is steady so the bit doesn't wonder.

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Old 07-31-2011, 03:04 PM   #4
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Trying to follow Kals build but think he is using a different element.

Think the 1.25" slug punch or hole saw will be good.

Only other question would be how far from the weld? Also trying to consider a false bottom which i think would rest lower due to the curve of the bottom.

thanks
john

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Old 07-31-2011, 03:10 PM   #5
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fill your vessel up with 2-3 gallons, make sure the element is below that. It does not need to be on the bottom. When I did my keggle, I did it the same level I put my pickup tube, but a keggle has a concave bottle. I dont use a false bottom. I use a hop spider and a circle of stainless braid on the pipeup tube and I leave a ton of break material. If you try to whirlpool and expect a tied trub cone, I have not been able to get one with my element in the keggle, not sure if it interfears or using a hop spider I dont have heavy enough material to form the cone.

If you get a punch, make sure it is a chassis or radio punch, not a conduit. Conduit 1 1/4 hole size is actually 1.32. I can let you borrow mine if you want, I have the hole saws and the punch.

Kals element is different, but the process should be identical. Elements are either 1" or 1 3/8" threads from what I have seen. I think most are 1".

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Old 07-31-2011, 09:22 PM   #6
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Actually made a hop spider a few batches ago didn't realize that was what it was called...

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