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Old 02-15-2011, 03:45 PM   #11
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This maybe what your looking for Kind of pricey at $135.00 from Automationdirect.com
http://www.automationdirect.com/stat...rox30mmuhz.pdf
A ultrasonic proximity sensor can measure fluid levels from the top down, would make a great little addition to an HMI screen to show liquid level in the HLT.
Let me know if you go that route how it works out for you I have played with them a little here and there but never actually used it in a application.
I don't get how you could measure fluid levels using that, without using a whole bunch of them lined up in series. Does it return a gradient voltage or current based on the proximity?
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Old 02-15-2011, 03:46 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by carloski44 View Post
This maybe what your looking for Kind of pricey at $135.00 from Automationdirect.com
http://www.automationdirect.com/stat...rox30mmuhz.pdf
A ultrasonic proximity sensor can measure fluid levels from the top down, would make a great little addition to an HMI screen to show liquid level in the HLT.
Let me know if you go that route how it works out for you I have played with them a little here and there but never actually used it in a application.
I've helped used something similar in a CAT plant to position an end mill on an engine block. It wasn't for liquids, but it was pretty neat. Extremely accurate. Quite a bit of overkill for this scenario.

*EDIT*
I did not look at the link and assumed it was something else. The one we used was a single sensor that bounced a signal back to determine distance.
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Old 02-15-2011, 03:51 PM   #13
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Do you fly sparge? You don't lose heat during that? I haven't got my system up yet, but fully intend to run the HLT element while sparging to keep the temp of the sparge water where I want it. On my old propane system I only had a single burner, so while I was sparging I would move the burner to my boil kettle and get the boil started. By the time I was done sparging, the sparge water was probably 110-120 degrees at best.
I batch sparge.

When I'm ready to sparge, I add half the water and recirculate for a while. Then, after it drains, I add the other half. If I need to bump up the heat, I just turn the elements (heatsticks) back on in between halves.

I'm going to add a layer of reflectix insulation to the HLT, which will help with any heat loss.
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Old 02-15-2011, 03:53 PM   #14
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ETA: Also, I have seen a two probe water level sensor that uses the metal pot as the common. I will look for the link when I get home.
Found it: http://www.wortomatic.com/articles/T...d-Level-Doctor
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Old 02-15-2011, 03:54 PM   #15
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You would only need 1 per vessel as it is analog, you would mount in the lid of your HLT, and you would need a analog input in order to read the sensor. In other words its not acutally a switch it is a analog measuring device like a thermocouple or pressure feedback, and could still function as a switch when certain levels were reached, but could also function as a level indicator when coupled with an HMI or similar device.

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Old 02-15-2011, 04:04 PM   #16
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You would only need 1 per vessel as it is analog, you would mount in the lid of your HLT, and you would need a analog input in order to read the sensor. In other words its not acutally a switch it is a analog measuring device like a thermocouple or pressure feedback, and could still function as a switch when certain levels were reached, but could also function as a level indicator when coupled with an HMI or similar device.
You linked a set of Thru-beam Pair sensors. You need both.
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Old 02-15-2011, 04:10 PM   #17
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This one works a little different it is ultrasonic.
If he is willing to drill another hole this switch looks pretty cool and is what some others are using now. http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/ive...ml#post2394717

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Old 02-15-2011, 04:17 PM   #18
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Yep, just grabbed the cheapest one, happen to be the through beam sensor. here's the link to the single sensor but quite a bit more expensive. http://www.automationdirect.com/stat...8mmultrasu.pdf

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Old 02-15-2011, 04:44 PM   #19
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http://www.oscsys.com/Stainless-Float-Switch.html

I think I've seen the same on e-bay for about $10..
Awesome. Thanks for the link.

I snagged one of the dented ones. The rest of my system is ugly, so why not continue the theme?
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Old 02-15-2011, 04:58 PM   #20
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If you dont want to put anymore hols in your kettle, why not just mount a float switch to a piece of tubing (stainles or acrylic if your cheap). Then just mount it to a cross that covers the opening. With that you could be in it for pretty cheap.. (less than 15 bucks if you use PVC cross, acrylic tube, and cheapo float switch. )

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