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Old 08-15-2012, 02:34 AM   #21
rack04
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The circuit breaker is 20A - therefore the wire will be 12 gauge. I do not believe you will be at any risk using the system with those GFCI outlets. The only problem I could see is if your refrigerator or another appliance is on the same circuit. That's something easy to check out though.

Just my humble opinion.

P-J

Edit: Here is a 20A outlet layout:



The same plug works with it.
I have confirmed that these two GFCI receptacles are on their own 20A circuit. The reason I brought this up is that I can't find any 20A rated plugs that will work with the GCI receptacles that I have.
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Old 08-15-2012, 02:38 AM   #22
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I looks like a great solution. They only thing I don't need in the diagram is the pump. I'm pretty confident I can figure out how to modify the wiring to take this out. How are the resistors wired into the system?

I assume these resisters would work?

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...tnumber=003-1K

And these fuses?

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=070-612

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=071-818
You are A-Ok with the resistors and fuses/fuse holders.

Re: The pump outlet. You might want to set it up that way anyway... But it's super easy to 'not' include it.

BTW: I just added an image of a 20A 120V outlet to my last post (for reference)

P-J
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Old 08-15-2012, 02:42 AM   #23
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I have confirmed that these two GFCI receptacles are on their own 20A circuit. The reason I brought this up is that I can't find any 20A rated plugs that will work with the GCI receptacles that I have.
Please don't worry about that. We are talking about 1.5 amps over the 15A's.

Try it, you will be just fine.
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Old 08-15-2012, 11:45 AM   #24
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Please don't worry about that. We are talking about 1.5 amps over the 15A's.

Try it, you will be just fine.
Found this interesting bit of information so I feel more comfortable.

"Part of the UL listing for the 15 amp receptacles is that they are capable of feeding through the 20 amp circuit, the primary difference between 15 and 20 amp receptacles being the faceplate configuration. "

Any tips on how to make the wiring diagram you provided easily upgradeable to 240V? I already plan to have all the internal wiring be 10/3 SJEOOW 30W. I am looking to make sure the wiring devices that I use will also work with 240V.

Also, what is the purpose of the flash buzzer and the alarm disable? Will all this fit into the 1/16 DIN Controller Project box (Pbox16)?
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