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Old 01-08-2013, 01:27 PM   #11
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I am not a diagrammer (nor an electrician), but if you want to take a crack at it I don't think it is that complex. Let's see if I can describe it somewhat clearly:

1) Where your 240v feed enters the panel, you don't have a neutral (you have H-H-G), so the yellow lines do not emerge from the 240v feed
2) You will add a 120v feed (from a GFCI outlet), with H-N-G, and the yellow lines will emerge from that neutral
3) You need another color because you have 3 Hots. Most of your devices are 120v, so fewer changes to the diagram if we change the blue H from the 240v feed to black where it really powers a 240v device. So from the 240v feed, change to black 6 lines (1 to each contactor (not the coil), 1 from each contactor to its outlet, and 1 from each outlet to its element)
4) From the 120v feed you added, show your hot as the remaining blue lines, and remove the blue line emerging from the 240v feed
5) For the ground on the 120v feed you added, take the lower green line shown coming out of the 240v feed, and move that so it emerges from the 120v feed
6) You will want to tie both of these grounds together where you connect it to your panel, assuming a metal panel

I think that does it, but you definitely should have someone more qualified bless it before building.

On another note, I would recommend that you have a way to turn off both power feeds in the panel, with a single switch (could be an e-stop switch if you like).

P-J does this with 240v by shunting a bit of current to ground and tripping the GFCI. You would need an equivalent setup for the 120v circuit, but that is way out of my league. In that configuration, hitting the e-stop trips the GFCIs so there is no power to the panel. There are plenty of arguments around that solution, but I will not get into them here.

The other option is to have another contactor, and have the main power switch control the 120v coil, and have the hot lines run through the contactor. In your application (3 hots), you would either need a triple pole, single throw contactor, or you could wire a DPST for the 240v hots and a SPST contactor for the 120v hot, with each coil wired 120v in parallel from the switch. In this configuration, when the switch is closed your contactors allow power to flow into the panel, when the switch is open it is the only thing in the panel that is energized. I favor this solution, and it would also allow you to remove the switch (4) that powers off the PID. The main switch would power up the panel, the PID would be on when the panel is on, and switches (1-3) allow you to control power to the elements and pumps.

I hope that helps.

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Old 01-09-2013, 06:25 AM   #12
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jeffmeh, thank you for the detailed response.

I took a crack at the mods in your first scenario, how does it look?



I'm interested in doing it the way you described in the second scenario though, I just dont have the skill to design that kind of schematic correctly. I took a shot at it but its probably way off. How does this one look?



As for the spa panel: HHG in, and HHG out, right? How different will the diagram for that be? I posted the original diagram in my OP.

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Old 01-09-2013, 07:13 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnp View Post
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Wow. I'm very impressed with your drawing skills.

Good job.
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Old 01-09-2013, 02:33 PM   #14
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I think you nailed it, although as I stated previously you should have someone more knowledgeable than I bless it before moving forward. You do have both switches above labelled "1," but you drew the left one as a two-way switch so it is correct.

For the spa panel, I think it would go like this, in terms of changes to the picture you posted:
1) Change the yellow line entering from the left to green
2) Change the yellow line that goes from there to the grounding bus to green
3) Remove the white pigtail
4) Remove the yellow line emerging from the breaker

As I said, I think that will work, but please have someone else confirm. Good luck.

Edit: Actually, there is no reason to have three ground wires (in from the left to the bar, from the left bar to the right bar, and exiting from the right bar to the right). Just go directly in from the left to right bar, then from the right bar out to the right.

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Last edited by jeffmeh; 01-10-2013 at 04:30 PM. Reason: Simplification
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Old 01-09-2013, 03:35 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P-J View Post
Wow. I'm very impressed with your drawing skills.

Good job.
Thanks P-J, does that mean the schematics are correct?

A few questions!

1. Are the red and black wires the only ones that are 10 gauge, and everything else would be 12 gauge?

2. Does there need to be a 1 amp fuse before the main panel switch like there is before the other switches?

3. Is the contactor controlling power to the 220 lines the same as the other two contactors for the elements? http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...roducts_id=129

4. Can anyone find a link to where I can find a SPST contactor for the 4th contactor?

5. Will all these contactors still fit in this auber enclosure? http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...roducts_id=143

6. Can the receptacle for the elements be the twist lock kind, instead of the type shown in the diagram? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...SIN=B003AUNPG8

That's it for now but I'm sure I'll think of more later.
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Old 01-10-2013, 04:31 PM   #16
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FYI, I edited my last post regarding the spa panel to simplify a bit. Good luck.

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Old 01-10-2013, 07:52 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffmeh
FYI, I edited my last post regarding the spa panel to simplify a bit. Good luck.
Thanks Jeff.

Can anyone else confirm that the modified schematics are correct? Thanks!
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