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Old 12-10-2012, 05:28 PM   #11
jCOSbrew
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If you really want to keep it simple and minimize cost, you could use a single SSR, single contactor, and single outlet to connect to the element you are using. Just unplug the MLT and plug in the kettle when you are ready to start the boil. Even easier would be the cooler MLT with no heating element and use the kettle to heat strike and sparge water.

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Old 12-10-2012, 05:36 PM   #12
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Those are the same switches Im speaking about.

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Old 12-10-2012, 08:25 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by grandequeso View Post
Those are the same switches Im speaking about.
I followed a link to the 3 way switch and it was a simple metal toggle-style switch.

Don't the plastic switches in the picture I liked to just control contactors?


Adam
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Old 12-12-2012, 03:47 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biertourist View Post
I followed a link to the 3 way switch and it was a simple metal toggle-style switch.

Don't the plastic switches in the picture I liked to just control contactors?


Adam
I have the metal toggle style on my panel. It looks fine and works great. I'm used to seeing these type of switches all over aircraft cockpits, so I might be partial to them!
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Old 12-12-2012, 04:11 PM   #15
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Note that plastic 3-way rotary switch can be wired to work just like a SPDT toggle switch. On the rotary switch you just connect the two Normally Open (NO) contacts together on one side and it functions like an ON-OFF-ON toggle switch. You can "enable/disable" contactors for two elements by connecting the 110v supply to one side of both NO contacts and connect the output from each NO contact one of the contactor coils.

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