Originally Posted by Dgonza9
I made two. Both by dripping jb weld down the pipe. The one with the j bend popped after about 6-7 months. The other one is still working.
I also used the tape around the element end and pour jb weld in method. This allowed water in the pipe so redid it with the pour into pipe method.
I'm curious about the DAP 08641 sealant. It says it's "safe" for "incidental" food contact. Makes me think an hour long submersed boil isn't so "incidental."
Or am I just being paranoid?
I need to find the thread, but one method I'd like to try is to make an all copper version. This way it will be sealed. Use some silicone tape at the top so it's not overly hot. I'm mounting an element in my keggle for now. But when my heat stick goes I might be moving to an all copper heat stick. HERE'S THE THREAD
on the copper heat stick.
The copper design looks nice.
As far as the DAP sealant, people go WAY overboard on applying this stuff. Piling silicone on the outside of the heatstick does very little as far as sealing off the element. On mine there is no JB weld or silicone visible on the outside of the heatstick.
Just using tape around the base of the element isn't a good option IMO. It seals of the wiring, but doesn't seal off the element to the pipe (hence why you had water coming in the pipe). A 1" pvc coupling provides not only a place to pour the JB weld into, but it fits VERY tightly into the end of the drainpipe. I smear some of the silicone in the end up of drainpipe first, then shove the element/pvc coupler in. Then follow that up with a chrome reducer nut and the high temp rubber o-ring that comes with the heating element.
You have to trim off a section of the pvc coupling after the JB weld cures using a dremel because the flare at the end of the drain pipe only goes about 2" before it necks down. This part is a little hard to explain but i can take pictures since i'm building another heatstick now.