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Old 01-15-2013, 11:48 AM   #11
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I used a single gang box. There's plenty of room - you have one entire side of the box open to run 3 wires... I don't see how you would need more room to make it happen, honestly. The double gang is cheap insurance if you have the space / don't care, but the single gang box allowed me to mount the element lower in the kettle and save on excess junk hanging off the keg.

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Old 01-15-2013, 12:46 PM   #12
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http://kegkits.com/electricbrewpot.htm
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Old 01-16-2013, 05:45 AM   #13
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Very cool, that's the box i got. Waiting for the elements.
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Old 01-17-2013, 06:28 PM   #14
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i use those. i had to wire the element/ground in sort of a specific order to get all the wires in place, but it works great.

definitely considering going to a jbweld + PVC cap sort of configuration, as it'll be smaller. but i'm too lazy to change an existing configuration. :P





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Old 01-17-2013, 06:29 PM   #15
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drilled the hole in the gang box to be just large enough to fit the threads of the element. it pinches between the element and the half coupling so the box does not move once installed. i like the sideways configuration better as it allows for better cord management, but the up n down config works as well.

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Old 01-21-2013, 02:55 AM   #16
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If I remember right I think kegkits has an outline of how he made his electric kettle and used the smaller box.

Just stated that the hole for the element was drilled off center.
I did the conversion & wrote the article posted on the kegkits web site.

The first secret to using the single gang box is to drill the hole slightly off center, away from the ground lug. And if you are using a step bit that won't let you drill the hole off center, you will need to use a dremel tool to cut off the corner of the boss the ground screw is threaded into so that the nut spins easy.

The second secret is to strip the outer cover back about 2" to give you enough length to manuver the wires around and then to attach the ground wire last. If you don't attach the ground wire last the ground wire is in the way of the power wire screws.

You can also find the instructions on the instructables.com web site.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Inst...nt-in-a-Polar/

Tom
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Old 01-22-2013, 10:53 PM   #17
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Default 600V is a monster.

Very cool. I see that you are using the hefty 600V cable. It happend that I got a good deal on the 9feet 600v with the twist and lock from ebay but didn't expect that the cord would be that think. It's heavy too.

How do you insulate at the point of entry into the box ? Did you add any extra tape to make sure the humidity doesn't get in.


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i use those. i had to wire the element/ground in sort of a specific order to get all the wires in place, but it works great.

definitely considering going to a jbweld + PVC cap sort of configuration, as it'll be smaller. but i'm too lazy to change an existing configuration. :P





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Old 01-22-2013, 11:16 PM   #18
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This may be a bit pricier option than the outdoor box, but for me this approach is much cleaner looking and easy to disassemble, plus with what i spent going electric an extra $35 wasnt much

20130122_171410.jpg  
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Old 01-22-2013, 11:30 PM   #19
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i drilled holes into the "plugs" that came to seal the unused holes and pushed the cable through. i jammed some clear silicone and a zip tie on the inside of the housing to act as a cable stop to keep the cable in place. should prolly take them apart and put a proper input port on there at some point... but i'm too lazy.

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Old 01-23-2013, 05:07 PM   #20
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I have the same boxes. I bought them from ACE. they come with 1/2 inch plugs but that 600V wire is almost 1/2 inch thick. Maybe you are not using the 600V but that's how it looks looking at your picture.

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i drilled holes into the "plugs" that came to seal the unused holes and pushed the cable through. i jammed some clear silicone and a zip tie on the inside of the housing to act as a cable stop to keep the cable in place. should prolly take them apart and put a proper input port on there at some point... but i'm too lazy.
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