Happy HolidaySs Giveaway - Last Sponsor Giveaway of the Year!

Come Enter the BrewDeals/FastFerment Giveaway!


Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > Heating Element sizing
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 06-30-2012, 07:06 PM   #1
OneHoppyGuy
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
HomeBrewTalk 2012 Vendor Giveaway Participate
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
OneHoppyGuy's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Concord, CA
Posts: 1,704
Liked 40 Times on 33 Posts
Likes Given: 52

Default Heating Element sizing

Found this calculator

Here is my kettle size and related element size based on this calculator:
BK - 40 gallon - 2/5500 Elements (starting temp 170F)

RIMS tube - 1/1500W Element

Can anyone confirm this or provide me with a better selection?

__________________

Brewright. All Rights Reserved. We reserve the right to brew and to help you brew. To protect the brew and defend the brew. To make the brew and drink the brew.

BrewSteel.com
BrewSteel on Facebook

OneHoppyGuy is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-01-2012, 12:05 AM   #2
wilserbrewer
BIAB Expert Tailor
HBT_SPONSOR.png
Vendor Ads 
Feedback Score: 9 reviews
 
wilserbrewer's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Jersey Shore, Jersey
Posts: 7,156
Liked 543 Times on 446 Posts
Likes Given: 10

Default

2 @ 5500w seems good for the boil...1500w for the rims seems light for such volume pending insulating the vessel...but you can discount this as I am a shoot from the hip type FWIW. I am envious BTW

wilserbrewer is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-01-2012, 12:09 AM   #3
OneHoppyGuy
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
HomeBrewTalk 2012 Vendor Giveaway Participate
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
OneHoppyGuy's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Concord, CA
Posts: 1,704
Liked 40 Times on 33 Posts
Likes Given: 52

Default

Wat until the system is done. Full automation sans level control...

__________________

Brewright. All Rights Reserved. We reserve the right to brew and to help you brew. To protect the brew and defend the brew. To make the brew and drink the brew.

BrewSteel.com
BrewSteel on Facebook

OneHoppyGuy is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-02-2012, 04:24 PM   #4
audger
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: ., Connecticut
Posts: 1,497
Liked 40 Times on 40 Posts
Likes Given: 1

Default

1500 should be good for a rims tube. i have a 2000w element in a herms pot and it cycles at 40% (800w) to keep temperature of a 10 gal batch. a rims tube would cycle less, maybe 20-30% (400-600w). so for 40 gallon batches, 1500 full blast should be fine. 2kw would give you more headroom, but at the risk of overpowering. depends on the insulation though.

for RIMS you might want to look at a phase angle controller rather than a simple on/off pwm. ive been playing with the idea- should eliminate most scorching troubles.

__________________
audger is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-02-2012, 04:39 PM   #5
OneHoppyGuy
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
HomeBrewTalk 2012 Vendor Giveaway Participate
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
OneHoppyGuy's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Concord, CA
Posts: 1,704
Liked 40 Times on 33 Posts
Likes Given: 52

Default

The actual batch size is 20 gallons. 30 gallon hot liquor tank/ boil kettle and 40 gallon mash tun. It's a 2 vessel system so the full volume needs to be able to fit in the mash tun. No insulation on the mash tun. I'm spec'ing a tankless water heater so strike temperature 'should' be reached fairly quick.
The system will be controlled by a BCS-462. For the boil kettle, which method do you suggest for controlling boil? PWM or phase angle controller (PAC)? Is there an adjustable manual potentiometer for manual control? i.e. how is boil over prevented?

One more question: PWM / PAC for oxygen solenoid so O2 can remain on for duration of transfer to fermenter or regulated pressure?

__________________

Brewright. All Rights Reserved. We reserve the right to brew and to help you brew. To protect the brew and defend the brew. To make the brew and drink the brew.

BrewSteel.com
BrewSteel on Facebook

OneHoppyGuy is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-03-2012, 04:41 PM   #6
audger
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: ., Connecticut
Posts: 1,497
Liked 40 Times on 40 Posts
Likes Given: 1

Default

with that PAC i linked, theres a potentiometer for varying the 'intensity' between 0 and 100%. im liking the PAC instead of the standard PWM just because its much more fine-grained control. with PWM its only on or off, which when you slam 20 or 50 amps on and off rapidly it can effect other things in the house (lights pulsing, havoc on digital voltage regulation circuits on your TV or computer, etc). a phase angle controller is more gentle; instead of just varying the rate and time of the on/off switching to equal the overall desired duty cycle, a PAC actually modifies the waveform to equal the % power you set.

Quote:
One more question: PWM / PAC for oxygen solenoid so O2 can remain on for duration of transfer to fermenter or regulated pressure?
you dont want to pwm a solenoid. if you want to adjust the flow rate ofa gas you can use a needle valve, especially for the flow rates you will probably be using with oxygen (low flow). once you set the needle valve to the rate you want, you can control the gas line with an on/off solenoid if you want it to interface with the BCS. a solenoid doesnt control the flow rate though.

and remember to use oxygen-rated equipment! pure oxygen can be very dangerous and can cause regular valves to spontaneously catch fire (thats right- steel or brass valves can spontaneously catch fire).
__________________
audger is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 07-03-2012, 04:54 PM   #7
OneHoppyGuy
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
HomeBrewTalk 2012 Vendor Giveaway Participate
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
OneHoppyGuy's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Concord, CA
Posts: 1,704
Liked 40 Times on 33 Posts
Likes Given: 52

Default

thanks!
after I posted the O2 question I thought... duh! Regulator- of course!

__________________

Brewright. All Rights Reserved. We reserve the right to brew and to help you brew. To protect the brew and defend the brew. To make the brew and drink the brew.

BrewSteel.com
BrewSteel on Facebook

OneHoppyGuy is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-07-2013, 05:39 AM   #8
BBL_Brewer
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
BBL_Brewer's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Kokomo, IN
Posts: 3,699
Liked 428 Times on 296 Posts
Likes Given: 321

Default

So how did the 1500w element work out for the RIMS or have you tried it yet? I'm thinking about going RIMS for my 1 bbl system and I'm getting frustrated trying to find information on how to size/utilize a RIMS tube/heating element based on batch size. There's a ton of information out there but not what I'm looking for. I've found information on what to expect from a heating element in terms of volume and time it takes to change temp, but I'm not sure how to apply that to a RIMS set up vs having the element in the kettle. I'm thinking about trading for a nice RIMS tube but I need to make up my mind rather quickly and I'm pretty ignorant when it comes to electric brewing.

__________________
Slots Down Brewery
Stick with the plan....not the sparge.


Never Ending Liquid Yeast - How to Farm Yeast and Freeze it.

BBL_Brewer is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-07-2013, 05:30 PM   #9
OneHoppyGuy
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
HomeBrewTalk 2012 Vendor Giveaway Participate
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
OneHoppyGuy's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Concord, CA
Posts: 1,704
Liked 40 Times on 33 Posts
Likes Given: 52

Default

The batch size is not the determining factor. The diameter of the RIMS tube and the volume of wort being pumped through are. If you are using a 1.5" tube and a March 8 series pump, 1500 watts is correct. If you are not getting enough heat you can also throttle the out port.

__________________

Brewright. All Rights Reserved. We reserve the right to brew and to help you brew. To protect the brew and defend the brew. To make the brew and drink the brew.

BrewSteel.com
BrewSteel on Facebook

OneHoppyGuy is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-07-2013, 06:55 PM   #10
BBL_Brewer
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
BBL_Brewer's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Kokomo, IN
Posts: 3,699
Liked 428 Times on 296 Posts
Likes Given: 321

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by OneHoppyGuy View Post
The batch size is not the determining factor. The diameter of the RIMS tube and the volume of wort being pumped through are. If you are using a 1.5" tube and a March 8 series pump, 1500 watts is correct. If you are not getting enough heat you can also throttle the out port.
Throttle the out port? Meaning reduce the flow rate?
__________________
Slots Down Brewery
Stick with the plan....not the sparge.


Never Ending Liquid Yeast - How to Farm Yeast and Freeze it.

BBL_Brewer is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply



Quick Reply
Message:
Options
Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Sizing a Heating Element by Batch Size bellinmi88 Electric Brewing 4 01-08-2013 04:05 AM
HWD heating element Thekeez Electric Brewing 18 08-03-2012 01:22 PM
Element sizing question iijakii Electric Brewing 2 12-03-2011 08:59 PM
Heating Element Below Pot? bikesnbeers Electric Brewing 5 06-17-2011 07:50 PM
PID and heating element lian82 Electric Brewing 2 05-15-2011 10:01 AM



Newest Threads

LATEST SPONSOR DEALS