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Old 05-16-2013, 12:58 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oakbarn View Post
You can control the flow on the output of the pump and therefore on the inlet without lack of supply. You should not try to control the inlet side.
Absolutely right. +1


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Old 06-15-2013, 01:44 AM   #12
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I haven't used it yet, but it does test leak free overnight. I went ahead and built out the heated grant. Here it is ready to collect wort from the MLT.
image-2540920.jpg

Here are the guts, a couple of float switches, temp probe and 5500W 240V spa heater.
image-184339832.jpg

In the back, it's a 240V in with RCA cables for float switches and a networking cable connector for the thermometer. I'm trying to avoid long dangling cables hanging off of my components. The extra cords make it harder to move things around and clean.
image-697638187.jpg

I silver soldered welding spuds onto a stainless steel restaurant pan for the outlet. I used the same technique on the temp probe because I had the parts to make it happen.

I placed the entire setup in a cedar box, mainly because I'm trying to stick with stainless and cedar for the esthetics.

I also silver soldered a copper lug to the pan for a ground. I used copper lugs to mount to the spa element and then coated them in Plasti-Dip.



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Old 10-16-2013, 07:25 PM   #13
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I mounted a pump to the bottom of the grant box.

I also programmed the grant to operate in 3 modes with my BCS-462. Filling, heating and draining.

Filling is triggered when both float switches are down, nothing is gong on.
Heating is triggered when the lower float switch is up and the program then heats to the predetermined temperature.
Draining triggers when both floats are up, and turns on the pump, which returns back to filling.

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Old 10-17-2013, 12:39 AM   #14
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That element is a beast...I'd consider going smaller. Also, a grant can work as a filter to some extent....you can have a coarse screen in there and see if it gets clogged...not the case with inline enclosed type filters

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Old 10-19-2013, 03:27 PM   #15
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ScubaSteve - From the last few brew sessions I would say that the 5500W is probably overkill, but it does allow me to quickly heat water. I'd say you might have the equivalent performance with a 3000W element.

I'm going to look into the screen idea.

I found that insulating the hoses and mash tun to be a substantial energy savings and kept mash temps more consistent. I'm mostly concerned about mash temps being the same for summer vs. winter brewing. Insulation seems to make a difference when some days are 90F and others are 10F.

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Old 10-19-2013, 05:31 PM   #16
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Heating water is definitely where you want the big guns. Of course, maintaining temps requires something less.

Yep...insulation is awesome....the trick is getting something that looks classy.



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