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Old 11-06-2013, 02:30 PM   #41
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I use a metal spring clamp to clamp my L-type metal heat sticks to the side of my aluminum HLT and BK so that they stay in place. Would this give the same grounding protection as a jumper to the pot(s)?

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tom
I was just going to post that no was going to do something similar and was going to pose the same question. Hopefully it will be sufficient.
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Old 11-06-2013, 04:35 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by millstone View Post
I use a metal spring clamp to clamp my L-type metal heat sticks to the side of my aluminum HLT and BK so that they stay in place. Would this give the same grounding protection as a jumper to the pot(s)?

thanks

tom
The goal of system grounding is to create a continuous low resistance connection from the appliance all the way back to your service panel.

A spring-loaded clip could be a hit or miss proposition.
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Old 11-06-2013, 05:29 PM   #43
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Well I would imagine the metal of the clip would be less resistance than the human body, so I'm gonna go with that.

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Old 11-06-2013, 06:34 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by dlaramie08
Well I would imagine the metal of the clip would be less resistance than the human body, so I'm gonna go with that.
In addition to GFI!
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Old 11-06-2013, 08:21 PM   #45
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In addition to GFI!
Correct. I've got that covered already.
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Old 11-06-2013, 08:45 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by processhead

A short from the element/ wiring to the grounded kettle will clear the branch circuit breaker on over-current.

The heat stick ground is the only return path back to the panel ground. That's why the kettle needs to be tied back to to the heat stick ground.
I don't fully understand this, a short from the element would need to pass through the exterior of the element which is grounded. For the kettle to be energized it would take a broken GFI and a broken ground wire?

I have an electric turkey fryer with an immersion element, the aluminum kettle is not grounded?
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Old 11-06-2013, 08:51 PM   #47
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Ok, I think I got it...

If your wire feeding the stick is compromised, or broken and the gfi fails, the kettle could be energized.

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Old 11-06-2013, 08:51 PM   #48
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Plan for the worst, hope for the best I guess.

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Old 11-08-2013, 12:04 AM   #49
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Default 1500W heatstick brews the entire batch

I just did a whole 3 gallon batch with a 1500W heatstick on the work bench, BIAB style!

I have converted to metric - it heated 14l (4 gal) of water to 62C. The grains were mashed for 75 minutes. It took 30 minutes to get 13l from mash temp to a boil. Really, the electric BIAB kettle should be super-insulated - it was wrapped with Reflectix and then swaddled in towels. The boil was very vigorous when it was partly covered, still allowing DMS to evaporate.

Most of the heat loss was from the meeting point of the upper rim and outer diameter of the lid where it was difficult to insulate, and from the bare bottom. If it was very well insualated with a hole on top, a 1.5kW stick could manage full 21l batches with a little patience. Two sticks would be the premium!

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Old 11-08-2013, 12:17 AM   #50
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Hey there, I like the build, started on my own heat stick today, doing something very similar. Did you use JB weld and/or silicone to seal the junction between the heat stick and the L pipe?

And did you use JB weld and/or silicone on the wire connections on the heating element?

I am debating between the two choices, JB weld or silicone, and am not sure that the wire connections need to be coated or not. What do you think?

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