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Old 03-15-2013, 07:23 PM   #41
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P-J,

Would you be able to update my diagram with a timer added in? I was looking at the JSL-71 from auber.

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=290

I think it'd be convenient to have it included in the CP.

Also, I've been looking at TiberBrew's build and wondering if I should be using a contactor for the elements.... Thoughts?

Thanks for your help.
Ok.. I completed the diagram for you that includes the JSL-71 timer. It is also set up using contactors. The contactors make it much easier to control the system using regular switches instead of speciality high current switches.

As always click on the image to see (and save) a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")




I hope this help you.

P-J


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Old 03-16-2013, 01:14 PM   #42
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P-J,

This looks great. I am on the run today, but when I get home later I'll sit down and study it a bit more. Thanks so much. I'm really excited about this!



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Old 03-18-2013, 03:08 AM   #43
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Ok. I looked everything over and it looks perfect. I have made a parts list and now it's time to do some shopping.

I have a metal enclosure at home that measure 14"x17"x4.5". I think it would be a cool box to use for the CP, but I think 4.5 is going to be too thin. Can anyone confirm this? The face is big 14x17, so I could spread things out, but I am thinking that I would not have enough room for the heat sink and the SSR, specifically. Is there any other way to arrange the components to make this work with such a shallow box?

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Old 03-18-2013, 10:23 AM   #44
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Do you plan to run the SSR's heatsink inside, or pop it out the side/top/back?

Auber doesn't list the depth on the SYL-2352, but I'm guessing you'd be tight at 4.5" - it may fit though. Your contactors are also going to be a deciding factor. Looking at a ruler and trying to remember what my panel looks like internally (I'm at work right now), I think the PID would fit, but my big contactors might not clear, especially on a back plate with DIN mounts.

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Old 03-18-2013, 01:35 PM   #45
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Badnews, I was thinking about the heat sinks being inside, but i'm not opposed to them popping out the back. I'm learning as I go and wasn't sure if that was an option. They were my biggest concern, though. I didn't find a depth measurement on the PID either. I think I'll just buy my parts and see if they fit. If not, I'll just pick up a box.

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Old 03-18-2013, 02:05 PM   #46
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Badnews, I was thinking about the heat sinks being inside, but i'm not opposed to them popping out the back. I'm learning as I go and wasn't sure if that was an option. They were my biggest concern, though. I didn't find a depth measurement on the PID either. I think I'll just buy my parts and see if they fit. If not, I'll just pick up a box.
Definitely mount the heatsink on the outside of the controller. I'd suggest this one External Mount Heat Sink for 40A SSR

The dimensions on the SYL-2352 PID is 1.89" x 1.89" and 3.94" deep.
The JSL-71 Timer is 1.89" x 1.89" and 3.35" deep.
I think they will fit if you have nothing behind them.

Hope this helps.

P-J
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Old 03-18-2013, 02:32 PM   #47
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Good info P-J. Thanks.

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Old 03-18-2013, 02:56 PM   #48
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P-J once again comes through with the details! I second the external heat-sink. Mine is mounted externally and it definitely gets warm after a full brew session. I'd hate to have it inside and dumping all that heat into a closed space full of other electronics.

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Old 03-19-2013, 05:30 PM   #49
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Next question.

Concerning the resistors for the e-stop, are these acceptable:

http://m.radioshack.com/radioshack/product/detail.do?itemId=2062296&op=%22http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062296%22

I know what resistors do, but I'm not sure how to work with them. How does one physically wire them in? Are there resistor "holders" to keep them from moving around/touching the box itself?

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Old 03-19-2013, 05:41 PM   #50
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Those are the ones. Can you solder? Solder a wire to one end of each resistor. Solder the other end of the resistors to eachother. Slide a piece or two of shrink-wrape over everything and you're golden. Otherwise, the only other way I've seen resistors done is using a small breadboard and some jumper wires, but that's normally just for prototyping and not for long term use.



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