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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > GFCI high current donut?
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Old 01-03-2013, 06:24 AM   #1
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Default GFCI high current donut?

While searching for gfi breakers for my system I came across this link.
http://www.spadepot.com/shop/GFCI-Hi...P9733C193.aspx
Has anybody tried to use this as a panel mounted gfci? If so, how hard is it to wire up in the enclosure? My enclosure is finished and I was wondering how much work it would be to wire one of these in. . Just looking for some insight.

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Old 10-11-2013, 10:06 PM   #2
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I am looking at the same thing, did you install it? Sounds interesting and eliminates spa panel.

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Old 10-11-2013, 11:56 PM   #3
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This looks interesting.... I have something similar but for 120vac, but am going to expand soon to 240vac Right now I am only running a RIMs (120 vac heating element) and 12vdc pump for mashing. The HLT and boil kettle will be coming soon. What I have is called a dead face gfci....I think. Same foot print as a household outlet. It should fit in panel as long as the panel is the right size of course

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Old 10-12-2013, 07:04 AM   #4
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Never seen one of those before, but it looks like a good option. Looks like it requires a high current relay, preferably 3 pole:

http://communities.leviton.com/servl...pec%206895.pdf

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Old 10-12-2013, 12:53 PM   #5
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I'm not a big fan of having the gfi in the brew panel, If there's an issue I would rather the power be shut off away from the system. Most of the time the reason the gfi tripped is because something got wet that shouldn't have.

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Old 10-12-2013, 02:25 PM   #6
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I just built an inline 30 amp 240 volt GFCI using one of these -- a Leviton 6895. There's a vendor on ebay with a bunch of used units and the approved contactors, FWIW.





It has a dryer plug on the inlet side and a L6-30 twistlock on the outlet side. I'm actually using the contactor to control the element from my PID as well, at least for now.

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Old 10-14-2013, 06:37 PM   #7
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kday,
do you have a wiring diagram by any chance?

Here is what I am trying to solve.

I currently have a 120V 20A control panel controlling my RIMS 120V 1500W element via PID/SSR and a pump.

I'd like to replace 120V feed of my CP with 240V 30A 4-wire feed (non GFCI protected) in order to add 240V 3500W BK element controlled by a separate PID/SSR combo in the same control panel.

Upgrading RIMS element from 120V to 240V is not an option as my RIMS tube is only 12" long and can not accommodate any of 240V element I had seen because they are too long
Also, I do not want to build a separate panel just to drive 240v BK element.

If I wire my 240V feed as pictured on the following attached diagram, is one donut enough to GFCI protect both: my 240V and 120V equipment inside the same panel?




Or should I use this approach with a single 3-pole relay instead?




Thanks.

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Old 10-15-2013, 05:17 PM   #8
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This is the diagram I drew for myself -- it was not intended for public consumption but perhaps it will be useful:



(Note that I added a 15A breaker in line with the 120 volt outlet that isn't shown on this picture.)

I agree with the earlier comment that putting the GFCI in the panel itself will provide less protection than if it were physically separated from the brew area. I suggest building an inline box similar to mine. If you use a 4 wire connection from the inline GFCI to the control panel then you can continue to use the 120 volt equipment.

You can use one GFCI for both 120v and 240v equipment. In my case I mainly added the 120 volt outlet so I could use an existing GFCI tester, so I didn't worry about not switching the neutral. I am not sure what the code says about interrupting the neutral on a fault but it seems like a good idea. For that you'd need the 3 pole contactor.

Another pic of my inline GFCI:

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