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Old 02-24-2014, 12:26 PM   #1
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Default Float Sensor setup on adjustable sparge arm pics

I know I've read about this before but figured I'd post pics of my recent build in case others were looking for ideas. The sensor was $3 from eBay and is stainless. I wired it into simple extension cord I made with Xlr connectors to match my existing pump wiring. I did seal the connections with silicone on top of the shrink tube. I've tested this with water and it works. The object it that it turns the pump on and off to keep my doer level just above the Garmin bed when fly sparging and matches the speed exactly of my draining pump that's restricting the flow into the BK on another pwm circuit. this should work very well with my little 12v 1 amp pumps which I have had great luck with on my last 7 brews...I know its not pretty but here are some pics.
BTW
I tried to correct the spelling in the title but it has no effect it seems?











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Old 02-25-2014, 03:08 AM   #2
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This is actually pretty cool. I was thinking along these lines myself. Does this require a relay of any kind, or can you wire it directly between the pump and power supply. I have auto top off systems on my aquariums which operate on the same concept, but those pumps are ac and require a relay.

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Old 02-25-2014, 11:46 AM   #3
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This is actually pretty cool. I was thinking along these lines myself. Does this require a relay of any kind, or can you wire it directly between the pump and power supply. I have auto top off systems on my aquariums which operate on the same concept, but those pumps are ac and require a relay.

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No relay required... The float switch is capable of either 1 or 2 amp loads and regardless the 12v pump uses 800MA so... although I have to double check the power requirements of my larger topsflo pump.
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Old 02-26-2014, 10:16 AM   #4
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Not bad...if a guy has even a modicum of DIY ability, he can often get around the high prices that B3 and others charge for their boutique brewing equipment. Blichmann makes the Autosparge, which is essentially a stainless manual float valve...$35 on Ebay vs $80. Lots of these "brewing" products are just borrowed from other applications and sold for more $$$.

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Old 02-26-2014, 11:50 AM   #5
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yes Very true but the blichmann float switch is a mechanical one which honestly made me nervouse considering my 12v pumps dont seem to like running with the flow cut off.... they are so small it doesnt take much to overheat them and have them fail...I believe even controlling flow with a ball valve is a bad idea.
I also have these pumps on a pwm speed controller but this setup acts as safety insurance if the drain line somehow sticks or my water feed pump gets a little overzealous..

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Old 03-11-2014, 08:11 PM   #6
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I know this thread has been dormant for a while, but could you provide just a little more detail on how the switch is mounted to the Loc-Line? I can't figure it out from the pictures provided...

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Old 03-12-2014, 12:04 PM   #7
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I know this thread has been dormant for a while, but could you provide just a little more detail on how the switch is mounted to the Loc-Line? I can't figure it out from the pictures provided...
two stainless hose clamps interscting at 90 degrees....

Ive used this system twice now and it does work very well.
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Old 03-13-2014, 08:47 PM   #8
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I bought one of these float switches earlier this year to use in a two vessel recirculating system. I mounted mine on a half inch copper pipe through the lid so that I can lift it up or down to control the volume moving through a particular vessel. Electrically, I have mine set up with a 12v circuit to tell an SSR to cut power to pump and heating element if the float is tripped. That way, the element never runs dry for lack of water and the pot doesn't overfill. As long as you don't overload the switch (don't run it direct to a March Pump) its a neat solution to keeping liquid levels in check.

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Old 03-13-2014, 08:57 PM   #9
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yes good point...one of the benefits of using 12v pumps that draw 1 amp or less is I can wire this direct to the pump or in an extension cord like I did.



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