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Old 02-26-2011, 07:11 PM   #1
McCuckerson
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Default Element Wiring

Serious brain cramp = seriously stupid question: If you were wiring a 5500W element directly to a 4-wire 220VAC dryer plug, how would you connect it? Hots to the posts, ground to the keggle, what about the neutral?

Also, can 2 separate 120VAC outlets safely power a 220VAC element? Both hots to a terminal, grounds to keggle, same problem with the neutral?



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Old 02-26-2011, 08:58 PM   #2
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You don't use it. It is used for 120v. Also, two separate 120v outlets might still be on the same pole. It would still yield 120v. I would make sure that they were linked circuits for safety reasons. If one breaker trips and not the other, you might presume it is safe because the power level seems to have stopped. In reality you would still have 120v flowing and looking for a path. Don't be the path!



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Old 02-26-2011, 09:04 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McCuckerson View Post
Serious brain cramp = seriously stupid question: If you were wiring a 5500W element directly to a 4-wire 220VAC dryer plug, how would you connect it? Hots to the posts, ground to the keggle, what about the neutral?

Also, can 2 separate 120VAC outlets safely power a 220VAC element? Both hots to a terminal, grounds to keggle, same problem with the neutral?
Neutral is not used for 220v.

Simple answer... NO, don't try to power a 220v element with 2, 120v outlets.

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Old 02-26-2011, 09:05 PM   #4
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Also, can 2 separate 120VAC outlets safely power a 220VAC element? Both hots to a terminal, grounds to keggle, same problem with the neutral?
Safely? No. But possibily? It depends.. the hots would need to be coming from separate circuits that are each from one of the 2 bus bars in the main panel. They would also need to be of the same amperage. I don't recommend it.
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Old 02-26-2011, 09:06 PM   #5
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The two 120 VAC outlets are probably driven from the same phase of the 220VAC feeding the house. The result would be 120VAC, not what you are looking for. Running a 220V source directly to a heating element of of a 30 or 50 Amp breaker without a disconnect, other than the plug in the outlet is just plain UNSAFE!

This is why there is a National Electric Code. Your boil kettle needs to be grounded (remember ground and Neutral are two different things). The Neutral is provided in the Dryer Circuit because most modern dryers utilize 120VAC controls.

Please, build a control panel, even a rudimentary one to do this.

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Old 02-26-2011, 09:08 PM   #6
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Thanks guys! I will not try it.

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Old 03-09-2011, 10:58 PM   #7
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... Please, build a control panel, even a rudimentary one to do this.
Do you guys recommend a disconnect in the control panel? I brew within 6 feet of the breaker panel in my garage and I thought I would use the breaker as the switch.
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Old 03-09-2011, 11:17 PM   #8
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Do you guys recommend a disconnect in the control panel? I brew within 6 feet of the breaker panel in my garage and I thought I would use the breaker as the switch.
Only if it is a GFCI breaker. If it isn't you can replace it with one and you'll be fine. I prefer not to use the breaker to switch the panel on and off though because it wears out the breaker over time.
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Old 03-09-2011, 11:42 PM   #9
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Do you guys recommend a disconnect in the control panel? I brew within 6 feet of the breaker panel in my garage and I thought I would use the breaker as the switch.
I use a spa disconnect panel for GFCI protection near the wall receptacle, but on my brew stove, which is some distance away, I have one of these (actually, mine is made by Square D, but is basically the same):
http://www.lowes.com/pd_12587-1318-LF211NU_0__?productId=1008293&Ntt=disconnect&pl=1& currentURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Ddisconnect

This allows me to turn power on and off without wearing out a breaker, and also gives me an easy to reach emergency off switch.
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Old 03-09-2011, 11:44 PM   #10
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Are your arms 6 feet long? If not I'd go with a disconnect/switch within reach of your brewing rig.



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