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**TRG** · 01-25-2012, 05:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by audger

yea i wasnt trying to rain on anyones parade at all. i just cant understand why it should be working... as it does appear to be from several peoples reports. i would assume that the base of most elements would be mild steel plated with something like chromium, or possibly stainless.

It works only when there is an electrical connection between the Mg and Fe in the element. If you look up the standard reduction potentials of those two metals, you'll find that Mg has a far more negative reduction potential. Therefore when electrically connected to the Fe in your element, the 2 or 3 electrons (depending on whether you're oxidizing to the +2 or +3 state) that the Fe would normally lose in the 'rusting' process are replaced by 2 from the magnesium. Essentially what this is doing is instead of the Fe acting as the anode, it becomes the cathode when connected to Mg due to the difference in their standard reduction potentials.

Sorry if this is a bit too much - I'm a chemist... but in a nutshell - electrically connected = will work.

**kal** · 01-25-2012, 05:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRems

I have these exact ones, except mine are 5500w.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/250954532816
They are sandhog brand, I don't have a part # I bought them from a member here on hbt. But you can see in the eBay picture there is some sort af anode at the base. It doesn't look aluminum to me. I'm not sure what kind of metal it is.

Interesting! I've never seen these before. That would appear to be a pretty elegant solution, but without knowing what the anode is, it's hard to recommend. If it's Mg that would be great!

It's ULWD just by looking a the length which is good. (pretty much has to be at 4500W).

Kal

durban · 01-25-2012, 07:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevink

Has anyone ever cut one of these anodes in half so it doesn't stick into the kettle so far? It seems like 4 1/2" is a little much.

The bases of the Camco anodes are steel, the Mg part is on the end, so cutting them really isn't an option.

kevink · 01-25-2012, 07:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by durban

The bases of the Camco anodes are steel, the Mg part is on the end, so cutting them really isn't an option.

Why is cutting them not an option? I'm talking about cutting half of the Mg part off to make it about half as long. I'm not sure what you're trying to say.

jpalarchio · 01-25-2012, 07:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevink

Why is cutting them not an option? I'm talking about cutting half of the Mg part off to make it about half as long. I'm not sure what you're trying to say.

I'd be curious if the rod is solid or not. The larger anode rods that I've seen in a water heater have had a regular steel core inside the magnesium rod. The way I understand it, the magnesium corrodes away over time as opposed to your water heater interior but I could be incorrect. In theory, replacing this rod once it corrodes extends your water heater life but I've yet to talk to anyone that has actually done this.

I've seen some larger anode rods that say they can be cut to length so perhaps some are solid. If so, and if this works for rusting, seems like someone could cut up a 48" rod into 1" pieces and thread the end for a nice compact solution.

**TRG** · 01-25-2012, 09:30 PM

It wont matter if you cut the anode and expose its steel core. As long as there is electrical continuity between the Mg and the steel, the Mg will preferentially corrode while the steel will stay rust free.

This image shows a new vs. old anode...

bbognerks · 01-25-2012, 09:46 PM

Furthermore, the Camco RV Mg anodes in this thread have the steel/aluminum core visible as soon as you get them anyways. Like they were cut from a bigger rod. Hasn't had any negative effects. Not that I ever thought it would cause a problem. Mg will corrode regardless what it's wrapped around, touching, etc... As long as there is an electrical connection to what it's protecting that is.

jpalarchio · 01-26-2012, 12:57 AM

I'm not even all that worried about the anode rod corroding away. I imagine we'd have to have quite a bit of contact time before there would even be the hint of corrosion.

I'm still in the process of converting over to electric but I'm curious to see where this goes. If it works (and doesn't poison us in the process), I could see cutting up some anode rods to thread into a 1/2" FPT half coupler.

**kal** · 01-26-2012, 01:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jpalarchio

I'm not even all that worried about the anode rod corroding away. I imagine we'd have to have quite a bit of contact time before there would even be the hint of corrosion.

Yup. I doubt you'd ever see anything.

A hot water tank's full of water 24/7. For someone who brews a lot, the HLT may see 4-5 hours of us probably ever 2 weeks.

If you do the math, that's 67 times less. So if the anode lasts 5-10 years in a regular hot water tank, that's 335-670 years of brewing before you'll notice anything.

Quote:

I'm still in the process of converting over to electric but I'm curious to see where this goes. If it works (and doesn't poison us in the process), I could see cutting up some anode rods to thread into a 1/2" FPT half coupler.

The anode is magnesium. Many of us add extra magnesium in the form of brewing salts. Some here have also sent off before & after boil samples of water to Ward Labs for analysis and there was no difference in terms of Mg or other salts.

Kal

**WAORGANY** · 01-26-2012, 01:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kal

... that's 335-670 years of brewing... Kal

We only wish we had that much time on our hands!!!