Element rust no more!

bbognerks · 03-28-2011, 06:28 PM

So, I love e-brewing. But, from day one, I had problems with my RIPP element base forming rust in the HLT. Even just having water in it for the 6 hour brew day, it would form enough rust for it to run down the side of the keg to the bottom.

I tried POR15 and aluminum anodes with no success. The POR15 didn't protect the threads and the aluminum anode didn't seem to be active enough. I was just about to buy some magnesium fire starters, when a friend of mine found these.

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-11553-Magnesium-Atwood-Heaters/dp/B000701HEQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1301336209&sr=1-1
I silver-soldered another half coupling into my keggle and tried it out. 18 hours water soak and not a single hint of rust. I'm sold. I just hope this helps others looking for a permanent rust prevention solution.

**drez77** · 03-28-2011, 06:49 PM

Intresting. I just covered the end with food grade silicone and have not had an issue.

wyzazz · 03-28-2011, 06:59 PM

Any issues with Magnesium in the boil? Just curious...

bbognerks · 03-28-2011, 07:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drez77

Intresting. I just covered the end with food grade silicone and have not had an issue.

I had thought of doing that, but I wanted a more permanent solution. I read others that used silicone say they have to redo it after a few batches. I didn't want to have to worry about that. The anode should last at least a couple years, if not forever. It's not like I'm leaving water in the kettle day in and day out.

I had not seen this solution before, so I thought I'd share with the community what took me several failed attempts to resolve.

bbognerks · 03-28-2011, 07:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wyzazz

Any issues with Magnesium in the boil? Just curious...

Not sure what you are asking here. Many beer styles have magnesium in the water profile. Also, your body needs some magnesium as well. I wouldn't think it would add too much magnesium to the water profile. It's a solid chunk, so it would only add what the water would deteriorate in the given time it's in contact with the materal.

**Bobby_M** · 03-28-2011, 07:09 PM

I'd be curious what a Ward Labs test looks like on water that was brought to boil and back in the kettle.

bbognerks · 03-28-2011, 07:20 PM

Well, I certainly can do that if you really want to know. What do I need to do? Would I need to send in 2 samples. One of my water and one after the boil so we could see what it adds?

wyzazz · 03-28-2011, 07:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bbognerks

Not sure what you are asking here. Many beer styles have magnesium in the water profile. Also, your body needs some magnesium as well. I wouldn't think it would add too much magnesium to the water profile. It's a solid chunk, so it would only add what the water would deteriorate in the given time it's in contact with the materal.

Maybe I should rephrase, any issues with that large of a chunk of magnesium in the boil? Not trying to discount your solution at all, it's certainly a unique idea, and for that I applaud you. Just wondering what affects (adverse or otherwise) this might have on the boil or water chemistry. I'm certain that it wouldn't pose a health risk, just curious if there might be too much magnesium in the water afterward.

Bobby has a good idea with the Wards Lab water report. Maybe boil a gallon or three of Distilled Water and send it in to see what pops up on the report.

bbognerks · 03-28-2011, 08:08 PM

Well I think I'll send off 2 samples to Ward in a couple days. Which test should I do? Complete household mineral or standard household mineral. There is a $10 difference just to test for iron and fluoride. I'd rather spend $35 than $55 on this.

**samc** · 03-28-2011, 08:24 PM

Couldn't you just put that on the bottom of the keggle? Instead of adding a new coupling/hole.