Element guard

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phoenix0041

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I'm going cross eyes looking for a post on this .. Can someone point me in the right direction so I can make some stainless steel "ferrule" element guards like they sell at stilldragon ? Is it simply a long ferrule soldered to some type of threaded end cap (name of this 1" female threaded cap) ? Thanks... Sorry for the dumb question :(
 
Probably going to be hard pressed to fab one yourself for cheaper than SD has. But pretty much you have it, a 1.5" or 2" tc cap with a 1" thread for the element. Then a ferrule welded to that and threaded on the other end to receive another threaded cap of some sort with a hole drilled for the wire to exit, with a grommet of course to maintain it being water tight. Finally you need a ground stud and a gasket to seal up the wire cord cap. It think I have that about right, without looking at mine.
 
I'm going cross eyes looking for a post on this .. Can someone point me in the right direction so I can make some stainless steel "ferrule" element guards like they sell at stilldragon ? Is it simply a long ferrule soldered to some type of threaded end cap (name of this 1" female threaded cap) ? Thanks... Sorry for the dumb question :(

Might also want to check here - if budget is a concern there are some great options:
https://www.brewhardware.com/category_s/1895.htm
 
I'm thinking now of going the electric brewery route, with a box enclosure, but wondering how you attach a ferrule to these things ? I've seen pictures online but can't get a really good idea how to fasten a 1.5" or 2" ferrule to it, with a 1" element threaded inside.... Any thread links would be appreciated...
 
I'm thinking now of going the electric brewery route, with a box enclosure, but wondering how you attach a ferrule to these things ? I've seen pictures online but can't get a really good idea how to fasten a 1.5" or 2" ferrule to it, with a 1" element threaded inside.... Any thread links would be appreciated...

Check out brewhardware for their element enclosures and accessories. Will give you some ideas even if you don't find yourself coveting one, lol.
 
I'm thinking now of going the electric brewery route, with a box enclosure, but wondering how you attach a ferrule to these things ? I've seen pictures online but can't get a really good idea how to fasten a 1.5" or 2" ferrule to it, with a 1" element threaded inside.... Any thread links would be appreciated...

I wouldn't bother with those box enclosures. Yes I know plenty of people use them just fine. But, it looks like an accident waiting to happen. I'd much rather trust my safety to triclamps, stainless, and silicone gaskets than to plastic boxes, caulking, and weldless fittings. After the cost of time to fabricate is factored it is likely cheaper to just get a stainless housing...and it looks a lot nicer too. I have Brewer's Hardware. They are nice and they are expensive. Problem is even the 2" ones won't allow for ripple elements. My understanding is that the less expensive Still Dragon ones will allow a ripple element while still being high quality.
 
If I'm not mistaken the ripple elements will fit 1.5" TC and bigger. I'm planning on using the 1.5" from BobbyM at Brewhardware. It would be bad new for me if they don't fit.
 
It will go through the TC. But you won't be able to get it through a Brewers hardware element guard, even the 2" model. Unless it has been redesigned.
 
If I'm not mistaken the ripple elements will fit 1.5" TC and bigger. I'm planning on using the 1.5" from BobbyM at Brewhardware. It would be bad new for me if they don't fit.
It will go through the TC. But you won't be able to get it through a Brewers hardware element guard, even the 2" model. Unless it has been redesigned.

Are either of you confusing Brewer's Hardware with Bobby_M's BrewHardware?

Bobby's element guard has a 1" NPS clearance hole in thin steel that makes a shallow cup around the element - if you can't get that over your element, then your element can't be installed in a kettle or a water heater.

Brew Hardware Element Enclosure - the TC version replaces the nut with a TC fitting drilled for 1" NPS:
HotPod-EWL3-2T.jpg

ETC3-2T.jpg


The Brewer's Hardware guard seems a lot deeper, and so might not fit so easily. The 1.5" TC model is a lot shallower than the 2" one, and so might work where the 2" one won't.

Brewer's Hardware 2" TC element guard:
TC20F10NPSCOV.jpg


Brewer's Hardware 1.5" TC element guard:
TC15EEA.jpg
 
Dyqik, I maybe the one that that is confused. Brewer's Hardware or Brewhardware. All I know is that Bobby_M stuff fits 1.5".

Sorry if I caused any confussion.
 
Dyqik, I maybe the one that that is confused. Brewer's Hardware or Brewhardware. All I know is that Bobby_M stuff fits 1.5".

Sorry if I caused any confussion.

You were both talking about different products, but seemed to be answering each other. Just wanted to clear up any potential confusion. I got confused myself when I first replied, so I had to edit my post. I felt it best to be clear on the differences between the two supplier's products.
 
You were both talking about different products, but seemed to be answering each other. Just wanted to clear up any potential confusion. I got confused myself when I first replied, so I had to edit my post. I felt it best to be clear on the differences between the two supplier's products.


Nope, not confused. I specifically didn't mention Brew Hardware because I have zero knowledge of his element guard other than they exist. I use Brewers Hardware, they are impressive, expensive, but you can't use a wavy element with them.
 
It will go through the TC. But you won't be able to get it through a Brewers hardware element guard, even the 2" model. Unless it has been redesigned.



Brewers Hardware did change the design of their element adapters a while back. They are now a 3 piece design that allows a RIPP type wavy element to fit.



TC20EEA-D2.jpg




This picture is the 2" Tri Clover compatible version. The description on the 1.5" Tri Clover compatible version says the wavy element fits, but it might come in contact with the kettle wall or ferrule.
 
My $0.02, and I've been e-brewing since '08 and have used multiple ways to skin this cat, is that the Stilldragon kit is the best out there- straightforward design with heavy duty industry standard (tri-clover) parts, and a fabulous price. I am definitely one to save money, but as mentioned, the cost of the components to fab one might save you only a few bucks at most.

Buy one, use it, love it. I do!

http://stilldragon.com/index.php/element-guard-kit.html
 
To use the Stilldragon guard, do you have to solder/weld a tri-clover ferule into your kettle? The advantage I could see with that is to be able to remove the element for cleaning, and to be able to use the element on multiple kettles. It also solves my other problem, that two of my three kettles aren't keggles so grounding would have to be done at a handle. Does anyone have a picture of one of these installed?

If this is the case, what size ferrule would I need to order?

BTW I already ordered 5500W Camco elements and a couple of cheap Chinese 10000W SCR controllers.
 
The Brewhardware kit looks interesting but it only has a 1.5" ferrule, is this too small for the Camco wavy style element?
 
I wouldn't bother with those box enclosures. Yes I know plenty of people use them just fine. But, it looks like an accident waiting to happen.
Just curious - why? how?

I'd much rather trust my safety to triclamps, stainless, and silicone gaskets than to plastic boxes, caulking, and weldless fittings.
There's no plastic in my box design - it's all metal.

The caulking isn't required, it was added just in case, but most do not use it.

If weldless is considered unsafe, then the tens of thousands of Blichmann Boilermaker kettles sold worldwide are just as unsafe as my mounting method is based on their weldless method (silicone o-ring inside a washer) used for their sigh glass (2 spots), thermometer, and ball valve. I have yet to hear of anyone have a leaking Boilermaker.

Kal
 
Just curious - why? how?


There's no plastic in my box design - it's all metal.

The caulking isn't required, it was added just in case, but most do not use it.

If weldless is considered unsafe, then the tens of thousands of Blichmann Boilermaker kettles sold worldwide are just as unsafe as my mounting method is based on their weldless method (silicone o-ring inside a washer) used for their sigh glass (2 spots), thermometer, and ball valve. I have yet to hear of anyone have a leaking Boilermaker.

Kal

Blichmann is an engineer, what you buy is designed and fabricated to a spec. From what I remember, your design is modifying hardware store parts in ways they were not designed. The next person to copy it might not be able to get the exact part, has a different kettle with different sidewall thickness, radius, or material, uses a different tool to make the cuts, applies a different amount of torque, or any number of variables that can occur when rigging up stuff. I'm all for it in most cases, I brewed years with weldless fittings. However, when it comes to electricity I do not see it as being worth the risk of fabricated parts with so many variables. I'd much rather see people take their kettle to a quality welder, have a TC or threaded ferule welded, and mount the element that way as it takes many variables out.

I have the greatest of appreciation for all you have done, learned a ton from you, and largely used your design to build my panel; but, the element to kettle attachment and enclosure is one area I did not care for as I saw too many variables compared to a welded fitting and the more elegant enclosures from Brewers Hardware and Still Dragon.
 
Blichmann is an engineer, what you buy is designed and fabricated to a spec. From what I remember, your design is modifying hardware store parts in ways they were not designed. The next person to copy it might not be able to get the exact part, has a different kettle with different sidewall thickness, radius, or material, uses a different tool to make the cuts, applies a different amount of torque, or any number of variables that can occur when rigging up stuff.
Correct. But engineering is all about tolerances, making sure things will still work when things are not exactly to spec. People with very thick walled keggles to thin walled Blichmann kettles have used the 2-gang outlet box with great success because it's very tolerant to variations in spec.

Absolutely nothing wrong with welded ferules when done properly of course, but I've seen cases where a poor welder is unable to attach one without punching through the kettle. In my own case, I approached half a dozen shops with my Blichmann kettles to have a ferule welded. Most of the shops were willing to try, none of them were willing to take responsibility for an improper weld that punched though and caused holes. Most got very nervous when I talked about sanitary welds.

In my case I saw more risks with welded than weldless. I wasn't interested risking $1200 worth of kettles. To each their own of course, if there's one thing we've all learnt is that there's more than one way to achieve good resuls. Whatever works for the brewer in question is the way to go. Everyone has to be comfortable with their choices.

I appreciate the input - sorry for the derail! ;)

Kal
 
FYI the Stilldragon enclosure does not accept a Camco wavy style element.
Edited to say I am wrong, it is tough to get past the bends but it will go if you just believe.
 
I have one and it isn't going on my Camco wavy. Did you have to bend the element to get it on?

I put them in there a year or two ago, but I don't remember having any problem. I don't think I had to bend. But it might have been tight.

You can bend them some you know. A little elbow grease and I'm sure you can get it on there.

[edit] I've bent these guys plenty over the years with older systems. It's possible I did a little bending and don't remember.
 
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