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**CodeRage** · 11-04-2009, 08:52 PM

Yeah, Ill highlight each major section and try to note individual changes.

**CodeRage** · 11-05-2009, 03:05 PM

Brewery Service And Power Distribution Model.pdf attached to OP to illustrate wire gauge selection, wire protection, and device protection.

Can't append to the OP anymore

.

**pickles** · 11-05-2009, 03:53 PM

Wow this is really a great resource! Sticky!!!!!

Scut_Monkey · 11-05-2009, 05:52 PM

Code Rage,

Thanks for the PDF. It helps to see it drawn out. Two questions however. First, where are you switching to a lesser gauge wire? To me it looks like you are switching to a smaller gauge wire right after the fuses. Second, if you brewstand is a wooden chassis where would be a good place to ground it? Thanks!

**CodeRage** · 11-05-2009, 06:03 PM

Yeah, the large gauge wire goes into the fuse/breaker and the smaller gauge leaves the fuse/breaker.

Wooden rigs don't need to be grounded. Anything metal that is some how attached to an electrical device needs to be grounded. Like the chassis of a march pump, a stainless/aluminum kettle with an element need to be bonded to ground.

**BrewBeemer** · 11-06-2009, 01:32 AM

Add a ground screw 1" x #10 minimum size thru a 1" or larger tight knot in the wood then your properly grounded. This I was told when looking at DIY built log cabins at a show a couple years ago, we kind of got out of hand or control.
This above reply is a joke, yup been one one of those days. Sorry brewers.

**CodeRage** · 11-06-2009, 01:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrewBeemer

Add a ground screw 1" x #10 minimum size thru a 1" or larger tight knot in the wood then your properly grounded. This I was told when looking at DIY built log cabins at a show a couple years ago, we kind of got out of hand or control.
This above reply is a joke, yup been one one of those days. Sorry brewers.

Thats funny! I'll have to remember that one.

**CodeRage** · 11-10-2009, 02:38 AM

Hope the back is feeling better Brewbeemer.

If any one is curious as to what a stop/start station and Emergency Stop looks like here you go...

The E stop button is normally closed, make sure it is the variety that need to be twisted or pulled to reset. Once it is pushed, the R1 circuit will open up causing Relay R1's coil to drop out, which will cause contactors CR1 and CR2 to drop out and kill power to their designated loads.

To start the system the momentary start button is pushed causing Relay R1 to energize. When Relay R1 energizes a set of it's normally open contacts (DPDT icecube relay) close bypassing the momentary start button causing Relay R1 to stay energized with the start button released. This is what is called a latching relay circuit with reset. The E-stop acts as the reset.

Further down you can see the second set of contacts on Relay R1 turns on the coils for contactors CR1 and CR2.
If more than one E-stop button is desired they need to be wired in series.

Mods, can we sticky this or make a link to it from the project list? It's only a few days old and buried 3 pages into the annuls of DIY. I don't mind writing all this stuff up but it is going to take a lot of time and I would hate to see it forgotten and serve help to no one at the bottom of the heap.

* I've attached a picture of an operator interface to run a 1000Hp motor speed controller. You can see the System Start and E-Stop in the upper right hand corner. When the System is on the start button illuminates green as an indicator. Smacking the red mushroom will kill all control power in the panel.

**cyberbackpacker** · 11-10-2009, 02:12 PM

I've only found the e-stop/panic buttons at 10a ratings for 250v... what would you use on a system that is pushing 50a at 240?

**CodeRage** · 11-10-2009, 02:18 PM

The circuit above only requires a button rated for the current need to drive the R1 relay coil.

R1 drives the contactors which carry the large loads.

To eliminate the need to push the start button to power the system up remove the start button and the R1 contact parallel to it. Basically wire the E-stop straight to the R1 coil.

make sense?