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Old 05-22-2010, 07:07 PM   #111
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That was my guess, thanks.

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Old 05-23-2010, 05:00 AM   #112
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Didnt have much time this afternoon to give a proper answer.
The breaker is rated for a fixed amperage determined by the wire gauge, if the wire were to short to ground, the ground conductor needs to be rated for the same current draw as the breaker. Otherwise, if you had a connection to ground with some resistance, a smaller ground wire could get hot and start to burn and the breaker never trip. It sounds far fetched but I actually watched something of the same principal happen in the field. Freak things do happen

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Brutus 20e build | Electrical Primer for Brewers | Auber SYL-2362A2 PID Install & Config
So as I am walking out the door this morning I think to my self:
"self, going to work on Monday is like knowing you're going to get kicked in the nuts. You just don't know when or by who"
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Old 05-24-2010, 07:46 PM   #113
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Thank you, CodeRage, for all of the important information that you've shared with this community. I have a big concern now that I'm hoping you can help me with. I built a power distribution board from the instructions on this website, for powering three 1500-watt heatsticks:

http://alfter.us/beer/heatstick/powerboard.aspx

I've tested it with a lamp and it seems to work fine. However, there is no breaker or fuse between the 240 volt source and the switches for the GFIC outlets. Is this going to be a hazard?

Thanks very much for your help.

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Old 05-24-2010, 08:13 PM   #114
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Hmm, well no matter how I say this, it's going to sound like a code Nazi. So I'll just state the facts.

Switching from 10Awg to 12 or 14 awg with no current protection is a no no. Consider that is a thirty amp service each one of those wires to the switches going to the gfci could see currents in excess of their rating.

The GFCIs are only rated for 15A as well, I don't know if they are of the type to have a current limiting breaker built in and GFCI or just GFCI. Either way, they could see current exceeding their rating for an extended period of time.

And do not bond neutral to ground as he suggests.

Will it work? Yeah, you have to be mindful of the current you are placing on each load. Is it dangerous? It could be safer.

If I were to build some thing like that, I would get a small distribution panel from the hardware store. Wire the 24V service into it and use 15/20A breakers for each receptacle output/switch combo (provided they are rated for 15 or 20 A). small breakers and panels are cheap.

So instead of bringing that big old SW00 cord into the blue box, you would have a set of wires from each breaker running to a switch and then the gfci.

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Old 05-24-2010, 08:29 PM   #115
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Thanks, that's a huge help. I appreciate your reply.

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Old 05-24-2010, 09:49 PM   #116
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CodeRage - I have 3 5500w heating elements, two of which I'm supplying 30A but only want to supply 20A to the other. Will this element try to use all 20A and output 4800W and if so will it blow the fuse constantly? Perhaps I need to buy a smaller watt element?

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Old 05-24-2010, 10:30 PM   #117
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You'll have to use a 4500W element in place of the 5500W. If you really wanted to get the full 4800W from it you could try to find a 4800W element, I've seen them before.

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Old 05-25-2010, 12:14 AM   #118
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The issue is that I found three hubbel twist locks; two of which are rated for 30a @ 250v and the other rated at 20A @ 250v for a really good price. I had already purchased the 5500w elements. The 20A is in the RIMS so I guess I could make it 120v and still use the same twist-lock plug and receptacle. Any other ideas?

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Old 05-25-2010, 12:36 AM   #119
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You could do that. You'll only get 1400W out of it though. I ran mine like that for a while and wasn't exactly happy with the time it took. It'll get you running though until you can get a new connector or a different element.

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Old 05-25-2010, 12:41 AM   #120
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I'm gonna just get a new element. I want to get a much power as I can out of it. Maybe I'll put the extra element in the boil kettle.

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