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Old 11-30-2012, 12:02 AM   #1
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Default Electrical Diagram feedback for a 50A HERMS Build

After months of research and pondering, I've finally finalized plans, and started ordering components. With that said, I've drawn up what I believe to be a fairly standard 50A, 2 PID, 2 5500W Burner, 2 Pump setup. Before I go ahead and finish speccing out and ordering my electrical components I just wanted to post the diagram, in case I'm missing something obvious.

Thanks!

Edit: The part that I'm still uncertain about are fuses for the various components, I'm thinking I should be fine with the single 5A fuse shown, but kept debating individual fuses for the various components.

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Old 11-30-2012, 02:36 AM   #2
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Fuse your pid's per manufacturer recommendations. Auber has internal protection but I don't recognize your part numbers.

Are you aware of leakage through the ssr? You may get a dim light with the ssr off.

Any reason you chose the gfi shunt estop over your main contactor. I would kill the contactor since you have one there anyway.

Otherwise, it looks real nice.

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Old 11-30-2012, 02:40 AM   #3
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Question-

It looks like you have a main power relay. Why wouldn't you use your e-stop to cut power to the coil of that relay, rather than trying to trip the GFI by leaking current onto the ground?

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Old 11-30-2012, 02:54 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by lschiavo View Post
Are you aware of leakage through the ssr? You may get a dim light with the ssr off.
I was aware of the leakage, hadn't really contemplated the repercussions on the two element heating lights as they were a very last minute addition which I still might remove.

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Any reason you chose the gfi shunt estop over your main contactor. I would kill the contactor since you have one there anyway.
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It looks like you have a main power relay. Why wouldn't you use your e-stop to cut power to the coil of that relay, rather than trying to trip the GFI by leaking current onto the ground?
I was thinking about shunting to ground to trip the GFI so that there's no power whatsoever in my panel, instead of disengaging my main contactor coil and still having power present. If my thinking is off, I'm more than happy to hear it.
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Old 11-30-2012, 12:28 PM   #5
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The proper way to do that is with a shunt trip breaker in the panel. Problem is that I can't find a GFCI shunt trip breaker (doesn't mean they don't exist - just that I haven't found one). Of course you can gin up your own GF detection circuit (TI has a chip) to trigger the breaker but that may be more than you want to undertake.

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Old 11-30-2012, 01:20 PM   #6
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I've modified my diagram to have my E-Stop kill the coil to my main contactor as well as trip my GFI.



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The proper way to do that is with a shunt trip breaker in the panel. Problem is that I can't find a GFCI shunt trip breaker (doesn't mean they don't exist - just that I haven't found one). Of course you can gin up your own GF detection circuit (TI has a chip) to trigger the breaker but that may be more than you want to undertake.
I know this isn't necessarily the 'proper' way to trip a GF(C)I, but I believe it to be a safe and effective way of doing so. Am I wrong in this?
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Old 11-30-2012, 02:58 PM   #7
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I like the idea of e-stop killing the contactor coil and tripping the GFCI. May have to rewire mine like that. Feels like a good backstop incase either the contactor fails closed, or the GFCI fails to trip.

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Old 11-30-2012, 03:24 PM   #8
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Besides the additional cost for a DPST (1-NO, 1-NC) e-stop, I love the idea. Grateful for this thread for inspiring me to go this route. I like saving money where I can, but if there's an emergency I'm trying to stop with this button, I want to do all I can to ensure that at least the electrical portion of it is stopped.

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Old 11-30-2012, 11:14 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rarian View Post
Besides the additional cost for a DPST (1-NO, 1-NC) e-stop, I love the idea. Grateful for this thread for inspiring me to go this route. I like saving money where I can, but if there's an emergency I'm trying to stop with this button, I want to do all I can to ensure that at least the electrical portion of it is stopped.
Should work nicely. I feel the contactor is a more reliable device for an e-stop. Throwing in the gfci shunt is extra insurance. Redundancy is a good thing in this circuit.
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Old 11-30-2012, 11:20 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lschiavo View Post
Should work nicely. I feel the contactor is a more reliable device for an e-stop. Throwing in the gfci shunt is extra insurance. Redundancy is a good thing in this circuit.
Once your question made me stop and think about it, I realized that I was idiotic not to have it trigger the coil, far more reliable a way to kill the power in the panel, even if it by itself doesn't accomplish my goal of killing power to the panel.

I'm very happy with the improved redundancy.
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