Coldies

Recipes 

[QUOTE=tre9er;3817967]I like the fuzzy logic of the SYL 2352 but This isn't to maintain mash temp or for a herms/rims system...just to get strike water heated and a boil going. Sure, I don't want to way overshoot my strike, but I'm not concerned with a few degrees...I can wait a minute before doughing-in.

I'm on a budget (read: SWMBO doesn't entirely know what I'm doing ) so if I just want to effectively turn the element off at a given temp, and back on when it drops below...what's my best bet? One of the cheaper PID's with SSR?QUOTE]



Honestly I would grab the Auber 2352 PID and buy the SSR as well. That way when and if (But most likely when) you want to move to RIMS or HERMS you will have a nice, proven PID and SSR already.

tre9er

Recipes 

Probably what I'll do...just have to piece it together slowly. In the meantime I might have to manually turn the element on/off until I can afford the PID, SSR, heatsink, etc.

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tre9er

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Ordered the elements and locknuts/o-rings (from bargainfittings). Still going back and forth on how I want to do this. Start with manual control of on/off with just a switch and save up for PID/SSR? Mount two elements in a pot and keep doing BIAB dunk-sparge in the BK? Probably easiest for now.

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Retrofit

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Is there a RIMS wiring diagram out there specifically for the 2352? I just got my box of parts tonight and I'm looking at everything and getting confused. The instructions include 5 wiring diagrams and I'm thinking, "Ummmmmmmm...."

tre9er

Recipes 

Auber has a diagram for each scenario, mostly. Check their website

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P-J

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tre9er,

Please do not short cut your adventure and throw money away. By all means, get the Auber Instruments PID SYL-2352 along with their 40A SSR. Choose the heatsink for the SSR based on how you intend to do your build.

Just saying...

tre9er

Recipes 

That's what I plan to do, in time. For now can you suggest a manual setup I can use while I save up for the PID?

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