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Old 06-07-2011, 01:56 AM   #1
Tuzlo
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Default Electric conversion

I am contemplating switching to electric due to crap weather this year and inabiluity to brew at all. I have seen the setups some people have like the electric brewery, but honestly I cant shell out that amount of money. Can one PID control 2 SSR's at different times (switched). I am no electronic genious, I dont design circuits for a living but I can assemble them easily.

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Old 06-07-2011, 02:40 AM   #2
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Absolutely. You can put together a fairly simple system that can work very well for you.

Here is an example:
(Click on the image for a full scale diagram)

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Old 06-07-2011, 04:03 PM   #3
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I have been studying your drawing. One question I have is how do you get the thermocouple feedback to control the temperature?

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Old 06-07-2011, 05:12 PM   #4
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The temp probe (RTD) wiring is shown on the PID diagram layout. That probe gets placed in the HLT to sense and regulate the temperature..

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Old 06-07-2011, 05:26 PM   #5
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Wouldnt you want the BK regulated as well? Im not sure ai want a BK going full out with a 5500 W element in it an d no control. Is it possible to have 2 probes and use a switch?

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Old 06-07-2011, 10:31 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Tuzlo View Post
Wouldnt you want the BK regulated as well? Im not sure ai want a BK going full out with a 5500 W element in it an d no control. Is it possible to have 2 probes and use a switch?
Good question. The particular PID (in the drawing) that I recommend is the Auber Instruments SYL-2352. It has 2 modes that are commonly used for brewing. The first controls the element heating to reach and maintain a set temperature. The second is manual mode where it delivers a percent of power from 0 to 100%. This mode allows you to control the rate of boil. You cannot control the boil rate by temperature. 212°F is a simmer boil and 120°F is also a raging boil. The difference is the amount of power delivered.

BTW, you can use 2 temp probes and switch them. It is really not necessary for the boil kettle - unless you're chilling the wort using an immersion chiller. If you decide to go this route, it is a must that you choose the RTD temp probes - IMHO.

Type K probes do not work well with switches or when their signal lines are spliced to a different wire type. Every splice or connection becomes a new temperature measuring junction. Auber Instruments carries special connectors and extension cable for the type K probes.

Hope this helps.
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Old 06-07-2011, 11:20 PM   #7
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Replacing the K Type with 2 RTD isnt cheap, about the same price s another PID. Makes me think about revisiting the Bakatronics PWM system, hell it's manual but if I have to babysit it might as well not throw money away.

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Old 06-07-2011, 11:24 PM   #8
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Why would you need a second temp probe?
There is a way you can swap a single probe if need be. Or just use type K probes. I can explain how.

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Old 06-07-2011, 11:51 PM   #9
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How else can yuo control the BK if you have no temp feedback

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Old 06-08-2011, 12:15 AM   #10
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How else can yuo control the BK if you have no temp feedback
The boil kettle is controlled by the PID in manual mode. The PID would be hooked up to the same probe that lives in the HLT (It just needs to be connected to the PID but the PID doesn't use it in manual mode) Manual mode allows you to set the power delivered to the element from off to 100% power. You just touch the up & down arrows to change the %.

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