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Old 02-24-2012, 05:04 PM   #521
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My setup is similar, rather than splicing them I put proper connectors on them so it's like plugging an extension cord into another extension cord.
I bought one of those 4 wire dryer cords and put a leviton twist-loc connector on it. The other cable is a 25ft (10-4) extension that I got at home depot (not the cheapest solution, but I had a gift card so I made it work).

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Old 02-24-2012, 05:25 PM   #522
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I can see the photo's you post I just couldn't edit any of the diagrams. I like your enclosure it's looking good.

If you use one of these you don't have to do any inline splicing:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_246879-1571-3867-CC5_0__?productId=3537750&Ntt=30+amp&pl=1&currentU RL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3D30%2Bamp%26page%3D5&facetIn fo=

They are adjustable from 120-240 volts and 30-50 amps by changing the plug pins.

If you do end up splicing anyway use individual butt connectors and heat shrink and you can just about drive a car over it and not have any problems we do this for commercial spider box cords that see alot of abuse every day. No need to worry about the connections coming loose with a little movement.

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Old 02-24-2012, 05:45 PM   #523
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My setup is similar, rather than splicing them I put proper connectors on them so it's like plugging an extension cord into another extension cord.
I bought one of those 4 wire dryer cords and put a leviton twist-loc connector on it. The other cable is a 25ft (10-4) extension that I got at home depot (not the cheapest solution, but I had a gift card so I made it work).
Yeah I was looking for the cheap way out! But realistically I realize this is a lot of amperage and I don't want to save a hundred bucks and lose a life.

I think that I will roll with the shorter factory dryer cords (10ft) that I have for now. However if they aren't long enough it will likely be a full out new 4 prong (like yjfun suggested) and 30ft bulk wire; or leviton connectors as you have suggested. But those leviton connectors are cost prohibitive. I bought some for the panel, but man!

I know I will need to upgrade them... but my wallet needs a little recovery time That will give me some tim to sort out the best solution.


yjfun - thanks for the advice! I think I will hook everything up that I have as is (right not that is 10 ft cord with factory 4 prong on it and the leviton connector).


1.[adjustable prong approach] 30ft 10-4 wire ~$2.10 a ft I think = $63
$14 4 prong adjustable plug = $14
(have end connector already so) - total = $77 x 2 = $154

2. [leviton connector]20ft 10-4 wire ~$2.10 a ft = $42
connector ~$40
male twist lock ~$20
(have end connector already so) - total = $102 x 2 = $204

3. [Splice] 20ft wire ~2.10 a ft= $42
butt crimps (have them, maybe $.50)
heat shrink ($5-$10 tops)
(have end connector already so) - total = 52.50 x 2 - $105

For my money I think it would be worth $50 more to have a single run of wire to the plug. Bad part is neither option is cheap. Time to look for deals on 10-4wire! ha
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Old 02-24-2012, 05:48 PM   #524
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...
I know I will need to upgrade them but my wallet needs a little recovery time
If that is the case: Splice the cables, solder the connections, tape and shrink wrap. It'll be A-Ok for a short term solution. Long term? Not!

Just saying...
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Old 02-24-2012, 06:12 PM   #525
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Actually this almost isn't a bad deal. I am not sure if that connector will work with the flange receptacle I have though.

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Old 02-25-2012, 12:13 AM   #526
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I am glad I am motivating you!

First let me say I hate painting, it usually is the part where I screw up hours of hard work. My wife looked at the paint enclosure perplexed, paused and said, "It looks professional". Haha - not sure I would go that far but I really thought it turned out pretty well all things considered.

I went with rustoleum's grey hammered finish (aerosol). If they would have had a burnt orange or red I might have went that route, but I actually like the grey too (didn't have the red in the HD where I picked it up). It says you can apply direct with no primer but I lightly sanded and primed anyhow. The black was too dark for me. I really wanted to go with the silver color, but I compromised for the grey based on opinions from my wife and buddy. We plan to paint the whole steel stand with this color as well as the control arm so it looks uniform.
That's the same paint I plan to use, I really like the look of it. What HD did you find the grey at? I ordered the charcoal grey online and they sent me two Silver's before they got it right and sent me grey. So I'm up two cans of silver hammer finish.
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Old 02-25-2012, 12:06 PM   #527
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the one in east Syracuse has it (might call it the dewitt store)

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Old 02-27-2012, 05:33 PM   #528
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yjfun (or anyone who can help) - wanted to check something.

should I toss in an inline fuse going from the jumper on the contactor block to the switch? (gold triangle on drawing)

You had mentioned something about possibly putting an inline fuse in where I have marked the gold triangle in the attached picture. Is this a best practice? Right now i had used 10g wire to go from line in to contactor, and contactor to terminal block. However I used 14G wire to run from the contactor jumper to the switch because the jumper wire should not draw beyond its lower amperage needs to activate the LED and close the circuit on the contactor (thereby allowing power to flow to the terminal block.)


if the vote is yes I was thinking I would toss in a 8amp slow blow fuse since the switch is rated for 10amp (just because I have some of them). This way any minor short pulls of power wouldn't blow the fuse, only constant.

Thanks,

contactor.jpg  
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Old 02-28-2012, 02:59 PM   #529
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should I toss in an inline fuse going from the jumper on the contactor block to the switch? (gold triangle on drawing)
After chatting with a few folks and one electrician I think I am safe to leave the fuse out of the mix for this.

I also reason that electricity follows the path of least resistance. The 14g run is about 5x longer that the 10g and has greater resistance as well (only bizarro current would be able to act in a way that could cause issues). All things considered I think the fuse is unnecessary.
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Old 02-28-2012, 03:20 PM   #530
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I think your logic makes sense and wouldn't bother putting one in.

Electricity does like the path of least resistance but between the 14 awg and 10 awg wires it won't care. Those wire sizes are so close and also its such a short run that it will go either way and not care.

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