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Old 04-07-2011, 12:40 PM   #301
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Oh, and you might need to configure the parameters for manual mode. There will be a time interval defined somewhere that should be set to something like 2 seconds, maybe less.

And, of course, the percentage of "on time" over that interval, which will be shown on the "sv" (set value) window of the pid.

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Old 04-07-2011, 01:21 PM   #302
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Thanks Walker - will start to digest the manual, and try your suggestion as noted above. Hopefully that will give me the quick start I am looking for.

I was considering cutting a hole in a HD bucket to attempt a fit check and quick element test (going through the bottom with the element sticking up). This would be a very basic test to see if the element begins to heat the water. If it does, then it is pot hole cutting time. Does this sound like a reasonable way to check the system without committing to cutting that hole in my pot?

My rationale is, I don't want to cut into my pot if I can't use it to boil this weekend with electric. I have a big starter that has been going for my IPA and I want to use it


Btw: I have the auberins PID (http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...&products_id=3)

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Old 04-07-2011, 01:24 PM   #303
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Just curious - if I unplug the PID (control box) between brew sessions, will have to reprogram each time?

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Old 04-07-2011, 01:29 PM   #304
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Yeah, if you want to do a full heating test before cutting your kettle, then you would have to do something like that with the bucket or whatever. I tested functionality with a lightbulb (connected between SSR output and neutral), making sure the PID could turn it on and off, and then I just went for it with the element.

I'm a little concerned about the fact that your bucket can't/won't be grounded and you will have the element coming up through the bottom. Meaning... if it leaks, the water will run all over the electrical connections on the element.

and remember that even if you leak test it first, the plastic will get warm and may loosen. Leak free at before heating doesn't mean leak free after heating.

Spooky.

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Old 04-07-2011, 01:29 PM   #305
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the PID retains programming when it is powered off.

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Old 04-07-2011, 01:38 PM   #306
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walker View Post
Yeah, if you want to do a full heating test before cutting your kettle, then you would have to do something like that with the bucket or whatever. I tested functionality with a lightbulb (connected between SSR output and neutral), making sure the PID could turn it on and off, and then I just went for it with the element.

I'm a little concerned about the fact that your bucket can't/won't be grounded and you will have the element coming up through the bottom. Meaning... if it leaks, the water will run all over the electrical connections on the element.

and remember that even if you leak test it first, the plastic will get warm and may loosen. Leak free at before heating doesn't mean leak free after heating.

Spooky.
Yup you nailed my two concerns on the head.... The malleable nature of plastic when hot, and the leak potential of it being underneath the bucket.

Regarding the grounding, the 2 gang box isn't a sufficient ground?

Great news about not having to re program the PID after power off.
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Old 04-07-2011, 03:13 PM   #307
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OK so the manual says "For SSR output, t is set at the
minimum (2 seconds). For relay or contactor output, it should be set longer to
prevent contacts from wearing out too soon. Normally it is set to 20~ 4 0
seconds."

Since I am using the contactors as a way to switch on and off the elements, this won't effect me right? That is, I am not turning the switch on and off, rather, current will be cycled on and off through the closed switch. Therefore it will not wear out the contactor as noted above?


Edited 1/17/2012

For my PID I did the following:

1. In display mode 1 or 2 press "set" and hold for two seconds to display parameter menu.
2. Press "set" 9 times to get to "t" - use increment and decrement buttons to set value to "2" for SSR outputs.
3. Press "set" and use increment and decrement buttons to set "SN" code to 21 for (PTD100Rtd probes)
4. Press "set" and if "Dp" = "0" then leave as is for F degree reading.
5. Press "set" 12 times (A/M) use increment and decrement buttons to set value to "0" for manual mode

note the following assumptions:

a. OP-A (output mode) for the SYL-2352 PID is only available in the SSR control output configuration - so there is no need to set it.
b. COOL (System function, i.e. heating/cooling) for the SYL-2352 PID it is preset to 10 and that is the correct setting for heating and F temp; C = setting 2).

To operate in Manual mode with the above set:
1. press "A/M" to switch to manual Mode
2. use increment and decrement buttons to set value for % of power to element


To Autotune:
1. Press "set" to get to "at" - use increment and decrement buttons to set value to "2". It will flash and automatically start autotune. To do this correctly you want to autotune with your typical strike water volume and you have to be over 10F away from that target (start the autotune early, it seems to work better IME).
2. Once it is done on autotune you need to go in and reset the a/m back to "1" so you can use auto and manual heating modes. Autotune pushes the A/M setting back to 2 (manual mode prohibited).

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Old 04-07-2011, 03:25 PM   #308
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CidahMastah View Post
OK so the manual says "For SSR output, t is set at the
minimum (2 seconds). For relay or contactor output, it should be set longer to
prevent contacts from wearing out too soon. Normally it is set to 20~ 4 0
seconds."

Since I am using the contactors as a way to switch on and off the elements, this won't effect me right? That is, I am not turning the switch on and off, rather, current will be cycled on and off through the closed switch. Therefore it will not wear out the contactor as noted above?

Wanted to make sure I was reading this right.
The "contacts" they are talking about are for relays built into the PID itself. They are not talking about your external contactor. You are good here.
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Old 04-07-2011, 03:28 PM   #309
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ha - duh... read that completely wrong - thanks for the clarification

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Old 04-07-2011, 03:51 PM   #310
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actually, I kind of read it wrong.

However, what they mean is that if you are using the PID to switch on and off a mechanical relay of some sort, then you want a longer time period specified so that the thing isn't click-clacking all the freaking time and killing itself.

If you are driving an SSR, then there are no moving parts to wear out and the cycle time can be set lower.

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