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Old 03-25-2011, 02:05 PM   #231
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So if I went the route of the switches (great idea by the way), I would take the hot (one from each of the switches) stack on my hot connection to each respective light and return them each neutral? Are you allowed to splice that neutral for a single return line to the terminal block? I am wiring it all in 10g so the return neutral would be 10g and 24o right?

It is a little tight in my project box, so this would actually help neaten up everything.

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Old 03-25-2011, 02:23 PM   #232
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So if I went the route of the switches (great idea by the way), I would take the hot (one from each of the switches) stack on my hot connection to each respective light and return them each neutral? Are you allowed to splice that neutral for a single return line to the terminal block? I am wiring it all in 10g so the return neutral would be 10g and 24o right?

It is a little tight in my project box, so this would actually help neaten up everything.
You shouldn't have any problem splicing the return neutral. The lamps will very likely carry only a couple of mA of current so it won't be a big deal.

Why the hell are you wiring everything with 10g? I mean, that's fine to do, but you can use wire that is LOT easier to deal with on the "low current" side of your fuses.

I think you will understand what I mean once you start trying to work with the 10G wire. That sh!t is thick and stiff and no fun at all. I used heavy wire ONLY to make the 240V path to my element. All other wiring was done with thinner stuff that was more friendly to install.
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Old 03-25-2011, 02:48 PM   #233
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You shouldn't have any problem splicing the return neutral. The lamps will very likely carry only a couple of mA of current so it won't be a big deal.

Why the hell are you wiring everything with 10g? I mean, that's fine to do, but you can use wire that is LOT easier to deal with on the "low current" side of your fuses.

I think you will understand what I mean once you start trying to work with the 10G wire. That sh!t is thick and stiff and no fun at all. I used heavy wire ONLY to make the 240V path to my element. All other wiring was done with thinner stuff that was more friendly to install.
I actually hooked up all the wiring to my terminal block last night (the 10g is a pain, but it was easier to buy it all the same (I went with 5 ft of the white and green and 7 feet of the black and red). I have wire left over. I know it would have been easier to work with the higher gauge, but I wanted to make sure I didn't make a slip up and put 14g where 10g was supposed to go.

I even have been able to work in all my connections to teh hardware so far (except one switch which has the tabs and not the screws). But I will have to get creative there.
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Old 03-25-2011, 03:42 PM   #234
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Here is one concern I have about sharing terminals on the switches with those lights. Since each switch is on a fuse (1amp FA and 2amp SA) will having the lights toast my fuses? If yes, will stepping up the fuses put the switches or the respective end hardware (PID, etc.) at risk?

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Old 03-25-2011, 04:38 PM   #235
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Ok so in addition to my first fuse question. I wanted to know if it would be ok to splice the neutral from the contactors? Neither will ever be on at the same time, so I thought I could splice these, and this would leave me with a spot on the terminal block for my alarm (I have an email into auberins about how to wire the alarm as well - wasn't in the manual).

Here is the diagram with the addition of the lights.

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Old 03-25-2011, 04:51 PM   #236
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Your lights aren't drawing anywhere near 1A of current. It's likely in the mA, it's not going to blow any fuses.

The current going through the coil of your contactor is also very low, you shouldn't have any problem with daisy chaining the neutrals on those either. Mine was right next to the terminal block, so it just made sense to run them individually, but a single neutral in mine is daisy chained to all the other lights and switches. The outlet got it's own neutral though.

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Old 03-25-2011, 04:52 PM   #237
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in fact, why does the alarm need it's own neutral? I made it a point to daisy chain all the neutrals on my front panel so that I'd only need to bring one wire for neutral up to the face of the panel.

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Old 03-25-2011, 04:55 PM   #238
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Thanks Bruin. I almost daisy chained to the outlet but thought better of it.

I think I may have figured out the alarm wiring.

I think it is hot to #13 on PID; Daisy chained #1 and #14 on PID; hot from #1PID to on off switch (4PDT maintained type 6amp?); hot exiting switch to alarm; neutral from alarm to terminal block.

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Old 03-25-2011, 04:56 PM   #239
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So maybe daisy chain all the lights/alarm's neutrals?

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Old 03-25-2011, 04:59 PM   #240
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that's what I would do, all those things are mA current through them.. double check the alarm to be sure, I don't have one in my system.

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