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Old 03-24-2011, 12:10 PM   #211
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OK so the way I see it is that I have a couple choices. First is:
1. single element outlet or
2. double outlet.

I am leaning on double outlet since plugging and unplugging on the fly in a brew session poses a greater safety issue in my mind than flipping a switch (though I could be wrong there).

So now I either stick with the current design OR come up with a third design with that switch you mentioned. Because I respect your know how and can see the "engineering" aspect of your mind working toward simplicity (i.e. 2 switches instead of 4 - ha); I am leaning on the latter, create a third design.

Walker - Would you be so kind as to post a link to one of those switches from mouser? I can attempt to locate one locally. Additionally, if you could explain how they are wired, that would be great as well. I will attempt to work in a new drawing today with your better engineered concept. Thanks in advance!



A couple notes:

I should have mentioned, the HLT will likely be a dedicated keggle, or my megapot in my set up. My friend has a line in on a free keg (or so he told me), so if that pans out the HLT would be free. That is really the basis for us making it a permanent fixture.

The way I see it, even if I bought some extra $2.60 switches because I rushed the order, I am ok with that (shame on me ). The key for me is having a well designed setup that makes intuitive sense and is safe when I am using it (more important than saving a few bucks).

My urgency to get this up and running is clear, because my chance at getting a free certified electrician inspection is coming up in 1-2weeks. So I want to get my build done by then so I can do a test run with him around. He is currently living in DC so it is tough to get him around.

To avoid confusion, I will be simply putting in 10g wire throughout my box. It might cost a little more, but it will be durable and avoid my making a simple wiring gauge mistake. As you said this is a current thirsty unit. There isn't that much wire in the panel, so I will take that one on the chin.

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Old 03-24-2011, 12:26 PM   #212
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Don't order from mouser. You'll pay more for shipping than for the switch.

Radio Shack has what you need for like $3. I am on my phone, so cutting and pasting links is a pain, but I can post one later.

Or, walk in there and tell them, "I need a single pole double throw switch with a center-off position. Rated for 120V and at least 5A."

Wiring will be simple. There will be three terminals on the switch.

Center one will be connected to your power distribution block.

The other two terminals are for the contactors. One wire to each contactor coil.

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Old 03-24-2011, 01:12 PM   #213
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I am going to hit up Radio Shack today on my lunch - So I will dig in their switch pile - but the employees are knuckleheads there (know less than I do, which isn't saying much).

So that switch replaces the three basic switches? Essentially, I am putting in a toggle on-off-on on the black power feed to each contactor.

So from black switch #6 to toggle on-off-on to each contactor. Ok that is pretty straight forward and saves a ton of wiring.

Thanks!

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Old 03-24-2011, 01:24 PM   #214
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It looks like I would also have to split the wiring from the SSR between the two contactors. What is the best way to do that? Just go from one 10g wire to a Y splitting crimp?

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Old 03-24-2011, 01:26 PM   #215
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Does your contactor usw screw-down terminals to connect load wires to? If to, I would just make a jumper wire to connect the two contactors together.

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Old 03-24-2011, 01:34 PM   #216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walker View Post
Everybody does it.

Even people who know that running a 240V element on 120V results in 25% power will forget that their 240V element falls to 84% power when run on 220V.

And now that I think about it, That means that my element is actually producing 5800 watts since I get 248V.

Sweet!
Er wait you lost me hear? ha
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Old 03-24-2011, 01:40 PM   #217
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Sorry. Wrong thread. I make a lot of mistakes when using my phone.

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Old 03-24-2011, 01:44 PM   #218
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Haha - I figured it was the wrong thread - I think jumpers it is. My new layoutis a lot neater, with much less wiring, and two switches. Looks much cleaner. Hence the saying... don't fall in love with your first draft.

control-panel-box-wiring-two-elements-master.jpg  
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Old 03-24-2011, 02:56 PM   #219
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I think I found a shack switch that will work!
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062515

Actually I looked at one in HD and I like that one better than the radio shack one (seems more heavy duty and the switch mechanism seems tighter, plus it is screw terminals). It was a gardener bender SPDT.

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Old 03-24-2011, 07:14 PM   #220
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that one from the shack will work.

If you found one at HD, it will probably be better construction.

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