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Old 03-21-2011, 02:23 PM   #141
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Walker,

Even though I don't have a pump yet I know I will eventually get one so I plan on running with somehting similar to your second example.

I was thinking that I would direct wire in the plug to the box (4 prong), and run the two hots, ground and neutrals into a terminal bus or two. From there I was planning to mkae jumpers on the bus terminals to split the lines as needed, and then run the lines out from there. Is this the right way to do it? Should I keep a separate bus for for each "neutral" "hot" "hot" "ground" ?

Terminal Bus http://www.amazon.com/Ideal-89-408-0...0716870&sr=8-1)



Fuses, they would need to be 250V rated so something like these?

2amp slow blow: http://www.pioneerbreaker.com/Produc...NE%2DSB%2D2AMP

1amp fast blow: http://www.pioneerbreaker.com/Produc...NE%2DFA%2D1AMP

(now I just need to find them in a qty of 1 instead of 10)


If you get a chacne - would you please list a place where I could buy those switches? I think they have to b rated for 30A right? There are a slwe of switches out there and I can't seem to find what I am looking for.

Thanks!!

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Old 03-21-2011, 02:31 PM   #142
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Originally Posted by CidahMastah View Post
Walker,

Even though I don't have a pump yet I know I will eventually get one so I plan on running with somehting similar to your second example.

I was thinking that I would direct wire in the plug to the box (4 prong), and run the two hots, ground and neutrals into a terminal bus or two. From there I was planning to mkae jumpers on the bus terminals to split the lines as needed, and then run the lines out from there. Is this the right way to do it? Should I keep a separate bus for for each "neutral" "hot" "hot" "ground" ?

Terminal Bus http://www.amazon.com/Ideal-89-408-0-437-8circuit-Terminal/dp/B0027114SC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1300716870&sr=8-1)
I wouldn't buy those unless you can get confirmation on the voltage and current rating. I don't see it listed anywhere. The strip needs to be able to handle everything that could possibly come in from the breakers feeding the panel.





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Fuses, they would need to be 250V rated so something like these?

2amp slow blow: http://www.pioneerbreaker.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=FH%2DINLINE%2DSB%2D 2AMP

1amp fast blow: http://www.pioneerbreaker.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=FH%2DINLINE%2DFA%2D 1AMP

(now I just need to find them in a qty of 1 instead of 10)
You don't need fuses rated for 250V. 120V is fine, because all of the electronics you are protecting are connected to one 120V hot line and the neutral. BUt, I do think the fuses I have are rated for up to 240V. That's just what was available.

I got my fuse holders and fuses at Radio Shack. $3 for a holder and $3 for a pack of 3 fuses. So, I spent a total of $12 and have a couple of replacements. You might be able to find them cheaper than that. I just didn't bother price shopping when I added them. I just wanted the things in there and done.
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Old 03-21-2011, 02:41 PM   #143
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I was thinking something like this for the switches (I assume they have to be able to swing ~30 amps):

http://www.pioneerbreaker.com/Produc...AIN%2D2S%2D32A

Thanks for the radio shack tip!

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Old 03-21-2011, 02:41 PM   #144
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Oh... and instead of those screw terminal strips, you might want to look at modular DIN rail mounted terminals. You mount a little track of metal in the box and then slide on as many modules as you need. It was cheaper to do it this way and is easily exapandable.

Here are the actual modules I used, rated for like 750V and 50A:
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=CTS6Uvirtualkey56110000virtua lkey845-CTS6U

Partition plates to separate the different poles:
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=PP6/10Uvirtualkey56110000virtualkey845-PP6/10U

An end-plate (needed only on one end of the assembly to cover the exposed metal):
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=EP6/10Uvirtualkey56110000virtualkey845-EP6/10U

Clamps (end stop) to keep thing from sliding around on the rail :
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=CA802virtualkey56110000virtua lkey845-CA802

And jumpers that screw in from the top so that multiple modules can be bridged together (I bought one of these long ones and cut it into multiple pieces based on what I needed):
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=CA723/10virtualkey56110000virtualkey845-CA723/10


And here's the railing I bought to mount it all to. WAY more than I needed (30" length, I needed about 6"), but the shortest piece they sold:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Phoenix-Contact/1207640/?qs=3hBxT%2fSYrV9IhG3ItEmxSw%3d%3d

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Old 03-21-2011, 02:43 PM   #145
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I was thinking something like this for the switches (I assume they have to be able to swing ~30 amps):

http://www.pioneerbreaker.com/Produc...AIN%2D2S%2D32A
No, the switches don't need to handle 30A. The fuses guarantee that the current will never be over 1A for the PID/Contactor or 2A for the pump, so smaller weight switches will work fine. A couple of amps and 120V rating is good.
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Old 03-21-2011, 02:55 PM   #146
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So basically you put in the rail with screws, then add those terminal blocks in (however many are needed). You connect the terminal blocks with those little metal jumpers. I think the link you posted for the partitions isn't the right one (looks like a terminal block). Those partitions are needed when you change your type of wire that you are bridging? i.e. use a partition plate between the neutral and one of the hots in the bridging setup?

Those blocks are really cool by the way.

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Old 03-21-2011, 03:12 PM   #147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CidahMastah View Post
So basically you put in the rail with screws, then add those terminal blocks in (however many are needed). You connect the terminal blocks with those little metal jumpers. I think the link you posted for the partitions isn't the right one (looks like a terminal block). Those partitions are needed when you change your type of wire that you are bridging? i.e. use a partition plate between the neutral and one of the hots in the bridging setup?

Those blocks are really cool by the way.
I fixed the links. Sorry.

You have the right idea. On the rail, stacked up. Color coding of text used to show you an example of building with hot, hot, neutral, ground.

[end stop]
[module]
(... add as many as needed, jumper together...)
[module]
[partition]
[module]
(... add as many as needed, jumper together...)
[module]

[partition]
[module]
(... add as many as needed, jumper together...)
[module]

[partition]
[module]
(... add as many as needed, jumper together...)
[module]

[end plate]
[end stop]



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Old 03-21-2011, 03:14 PM   #148
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Oh... and I think some other folks found things like this that were actually color coded. Different colored plastic used. Mine are all grey, but the wires coming in and out are properly colored.

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Old 03-21-2011, 03:25 PM   #149
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Default Terminal wireing

Would something like this work?

bus-diagram.jpg  
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Old 03-21-2011, 03:27 PM   #150
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awesome - from your above (didn't see that until after I posted) - it looks like I have the right idea.

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