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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > Electric burners - Any builders out there?
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Old 03-18-2011, 06:53 PM   #121
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So it would go from the power in (receptacle male plug) to power in relay to the SSR?

Is the relay the same thing as a contactor?
contactors are relays. But they are heavy duty burly ones meant for switching on and off large loads.

You can put the contactor either before the SSR or after the SSR.

On my system, I put it before the SSR, but on the system I am helping someone else design, I am suggesting that he put it after the SSR. The reason for this is that he is building a system like yours (manual plug/unplug of the two kettles) but he eventually wants to put in a receptacle for the other kettle.

With the contactor after the SSR, then the future upgrade just becomes the dropping in of a second contactor and changing the on/off toggle switch for the contactor into an on/off/on selector switch to control which of the two contactors is enabled. The SSR feeds both contactors in that config and the selector controlls which element powered up.
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Old 03-18-2011, 07:01 PM   #122
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I don't know what your picture is, but it isn't right.

for "SSR before Contactor" arrangement:
two wires in
one goes straight to contactor.
the other goes through the SSR before going to the contactor.
out of contactor, both wires go to element receptacle.

for "SSR after Contactor" arrangement:
two wires in
both go straight to contactor.
out of contactor, one wire gos to element receptacle.
the other goes through the SSR before going to the receptacle.

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Old 03-18-2011, 07:23 PM   #123
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Thanks Walker... I have to admit I am making some headway, but it is a struggle. For once my ego is well in check ha!

Anyway, would you be willing to share your plan that you are doing for your friend? (i.e. wiring schematic).

I am having a difficult time dumbing my stuff down from the electric brewery site. They had a relay in, but it sounds like I need to go with a contactor instead.

Basically I am trying ot figure out how the heck to wire my stuff up, and what I need to pick up.

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Old 03-18-2011, 07:35 PM   #124
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I don't have it drawn up, but was planning to do it tonight. I can post a copy of his schematic here for you if you want.

Like I said, contactor = relay. Same thing when it comes right down to it.

Oh, and as FYI: There is another option for power switching that could save a few bucks, and that is to use a big burly toggle switch instead of the contactor and smaller switch. You could directly switch the 240V with that big toggle.

I personally like the use of the contactors better. There's just something that feels better about flipping a 0.5A/120V switch on and off than flipping a 23A/240V switch on and off.

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Old 03-18-2011, 07:43 PM   #125
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If you wouldn't mind posting it up that would be great. I am working on a visio drawing with my hardware in there (trying to be sure I have all my stuff before I start), but I really am falling short on it. I know this will be worth it in the end. But man I just want this thing installed so I can brew with it!

Wisely I decided, no holes in pots until the control panel is build ha!

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Old 03-18-2011, 07:49 PM   #126
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Would this work? Toggle switch wise?

For the price it is looking good compared to the contactor...


http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/NKK...PC5?Pid=search

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Old 03-18-2011, 07:51 PM   #127
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Wisely I decided, no holes in pots until the control panel is build ha!
I did it the other way around, but it was because I redid my stand so I couldn't brew with propane anyways. So I did all the holes and had all the kettles and HERMS stuff put together while I was still accumulating control panel pieces. By the time I had everything I needed for the panel, I was done with the kettles/stand/fittings so that when I finish the panel it's ready to brew.
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Old 03-18-2011, 07:55 PM   #128
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Would this work? Toggle switch wise?

For the price it is looking good compared to the contactor...


http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/NKK...PC5?Pid=search
That'll work for an on/off switch. There won't be much current since it's only going through the coil of the relay. In any case, I wouldn't buy it from granger, you can get the same thing off e-bay for about $2. I bought most of my pieces from pioneerbreaker. In fact, the contactor they have is cheaper than this grainger switch (I paid $8 for my contactor).
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Old 03-18-2011, 07:55 PM   #129
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I just participated in two grain bulk buys.... I need to use the crap out of the grain so I can enjoy the summer sipping, not brewing every day ha.

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Old 03-18-2011, 07:56 PM   #130
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That'll work for an on/off switch. There won't be much current since it's only going through the coil of the relay. In any case, I wouldn't buy it from granger, you can get the same thing off e-bay for about $2. I bought most of my pieces from pioneerbreaker. In fact, the contactor they have is cheaper than this grainger switch (I paid $8 for my contactor).
Do the contactors have a certain spec they need to meet. For some reason I thought contactors were expensive (the relay on electric brewery was like $40+).
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