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Old 03-02-2011, 08:37 PM   #91
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Originally Posted by CidahMastah View Post
Walker - you wouldn't happen to have a pic of how the PID is wired up would you? The bro in law wants to see how you have it, since he hasn't wired one up before.

No rush
I don't have a photo of it. It's pretty simple, though. 120V power connected via two screws on the back, temp probe connected via three other screws, and then the SSR control lines connected via two other screws.

I can draw you a schematic that is pretty damn easy to understand if you want. It will be pretty generic.
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Old 03-02-2011, 08:52 PM   #92
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You can hold off for now (they don't show a picture of the connections on that site). He and I figured it would be pretty easy, but tough to tell without holding it in your hot little hand.

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Old 03-02-2011, 08:52 PM   #93
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Here.

This is lacking a LOT of items that would make up the full system. It just shows you how power is connected to the PID, SSR, and heater element. The pic below for the PID was taken from the instruction manual for the Auber PID to show the terminals on the back of it.

Not shown are plugs, receptacles, manual power switches, temp probe connection to PID, etc.

The temp probe would connect to terminals 4 and 5 if it is a thermocouple. If it's an RTD, it connects to terminals 3, 4 and 5.

And, note that this is just one way of doing things. Some folks prefer to have an SSR on the red wire, too, controlled by the same PID and the same orange and blue wires I drew.

generic_pid_ssr.jpg  
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Old 03-02-2011, 09:07 PM   #94
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Very cool thanks walker - I am getting on the horn with him tonight, he went shopping online today so I might start ordering some stuff. I think I am going to go big.

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Old 03-03-2011, 02:50 PM   #95
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I decided last night, I am going to go with the following, based on the go big advice.

100amp dual pole snap in Square D breaker (on main load panel)

Re-run the line (#2 aluminum direct bury (2 hots one neutral and one ground)

Buy a 12+ slot breaker (brand undecided yet - have a "Murray") subpanel in the garage but am going to go with cheapest price)
put in two dual pole 30amp GFI breakers, that will go to two 240 wall plugs (and my receptacle breakers)

Question - would you guys recommend getting a GFI subpanel, or just running with the GFI breakers? I have seen some $$ breakers for the 2pole GFI ($90-122 is the cheapest new I have found).

Walker, what rtd probe did you end up going with?

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Old 03-03-2011, 03:01 PM   #96
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I prefer keeping the GFI in the subpanel and not a separate GFI only subpanel - I already have a separate brewery control panel, I didn't want yet a third panel that's just housing a breaker. I bought my 50A HOM (snap in squareD) GFI breaker on e-bay for $45. From these guys:

http://cgi.ebay.com/SQUARE-D-HOM250G...item35af7171cb

Anyways, that sounds awesome - you could probably upgrade your brewery to 55G and still go all electric!

I don't even want to know the per foot cost of #2 wire.. #8 is ~$3 a foot a home depot. Not sure how long your run is, but at $5 or more a foot that's going to add up fast. It sounds awesome though, Tim Taylor would be proud.

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Old 03-03-2011, 03:19 PM   #97
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Well luckily - the aluminum wire is much cheaper than the copper (my bro in law found it for 1.48/ft) I have 60-70 - so at HD prices I was crying. It will still run me about a $100, but copper prices are are 2-3 times that for #6 wire... If I am digging and retrenching.... I am only going to do it once!

Thanks for the Ebay link.

My only issue is that I want two 240 plugs for using them for electric heaters. I like the idea of building the brew panel. But the reality is, my wife would freak if she saw that beautiful thing. Especially jsut after buying 8 sacks of grain

This all won't happen overnight. My wife was already giving me hell for it! But I will at least get the wire in soon, then construct the rest as time allows (and when my wife is out of the house - ha). Hopefully get my buddy to toss in a little.

What's the fun of it if you don't have an ongoing project right?

EDIT:

Man that price on those breakers is making me thing I should go 50 amp.... haha

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Old 03-03-2011, 05:49 PM   #98
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you could do alot with just a single 50A circuit. Run the big wire now and put a single 50A GFI and a 50A dryer plug and you can use that to power your brewery control panel. You pretty much will need some type of control panel, it doesn't need to be as elaborate as Kal's or some of the others on here - but you need at a minimum a PID and an SSR to control the heating element since you can't just let it rip full bore the whole time. There are a few toolbox builds on here that are pretty cool and more of a minimalist approach.

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Old 03-03-2011, 06:10 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bruin_ale View Post
you could do alot with just a single 50A circuit. Run the big wire now and put a single 50A GFI and a 50A dryer plug and you can use that to power your brewery control panel. You pretty much will need some type of control panel, it doesn't need to be as elaborate as Kal's or some of the others on here - but you need at a minimum a PID and an SSR to control the heating element since you can't just let it rip full bore the whole time. There are a few toolbox builds on here that are pretty cool and more of a minimalist approach.
I would definitely be going for a minimalist approach to start. That is, putting in the power will be tool man taylor style. Then I will cool my jets and work on getting a boiler element only (with PID). After that I will work on making my brewery control panel.

So would this work?
2pole 100amp off main breaker

but the following breakers would be in the panel (15 lights), 15(outlets), 20 (garage door openers), 50 2pole gfi (brewer panel), 50 2pole gfi (240 wall socket)

Let me explain the last 50 GFI breaker. It would be used for a heater something like this (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...A1SV1BYDTUK2Z5) - though I haven't bought any heater yet. Based on that, would I be able to safely run heater off of a 50amp breaker? Or should that be on a 30 amp GFI, or is the GFI needed for a heater like that.

I was thinking of splitting the first line from the 50 amp into a junction box to a second 240 v outlet (so I could run 2 heaters if needed). The heaters would never be on at the same time as the brewing. The brewing would always take place outside.

What do you think? (see attached)Attachment 21302
ghetto-drawing.jpg  
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Old 03-03-2011, 06:54 PM   #100
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Not sure if you need GFI for the electric heater, but it wouldn't hurt.
Your idea seems ok, if you want to possibly run 2 240V heaters I'd just install 2 240V outlets. You can easily design the brewery panel to plug into a 240V 50A receptacle.

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