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FalkyBrew 11-19-2011 02:02 PM

Electric brewing without a 220 line
 
Will this work for my keggle Reliance 2,000 Watt 120 Volt Electric Water Heater Element | Wayfair? Should I use two of them? Im trying to set up an electric BK so I dont have to brew outside. right now its only 5 gallon batches but I want to move up to 10 gallon. The problem I have is that I rent my house and it doesnt have any 220 lines. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

McCuckerson 11-19-2011 02:17 PM

You will need 20amp circuits for those as you are drawing >16amps. Also scorching is a real thing. Its hard to find lwd 120v elements. It will however boil 7gal with ease and you don't have to throttle back at all.

FalkyBrew 11-19-2011 02:29 PM

how do I find out if that is low density? Do you think I'll need two or is one enough until I move to 10 gal?

Lucky_Chicken 11-19-2011 02:38 PM

is the stove gas or electric?... maybe a dryer plug?

FalkyBrew 11-19-2011 02:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jtsims21 (Post 3499687)
is the stove gas or electric?... maybe a dryer plug?

There is no stove. I dont have any outlets for a stove. Im trying to install a heating coil in a keggle.

lschiavo 11-19-2011 02:51 PM

I'm boiling 10 gallon batches with a 4500W element. One 2000 should get the job done for 5 gallons. As mentioned be careful of your circuit rating.

McCuckerson 11-19-2011 02:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FalkyBrew (Post 3499662)
how do I find out if that is low density? Do you think I'll need two or is one enough until I move to 10 gal?

Its HWD, look at the watts per inch. This one is 154W/in that makes it high watt density, low watt density or LWD should be 80 - 100ish, while ULWD should be about 50-60w/in. Chance of scorching increases with as watt density increases. If you do a lot of 1.050 and under beers you will prolly be ok. Mine scortched with a big beer 1.080.

2 elements would be good, just turn one off when you acheive boil. 1 will work however. It just takes a bit longer to get to boil temps.

FalkyBrew 11-19-2011 03:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by McCuckerson (Post 3499714)
Its HWD, look at the watts per inch. This one is 154W/in that makes it high watt density, low watt density or LWD should be 80 - 100ish, while ULWD should be about 50-60w/in. Chance of scorching increases with as watt density increases. If you do a lot of 1.050 and under beers you will prolly be ok. Mine scortched with a big beer 1.080.

Good to know thank you.

MonkeyWrench 11-19-2011 03:51 PM

If your kettle is big enough, you can install 2 4500w elements and run them on 120. With 2 elements, you can run each off of a different standard outlet (on a different circuit). A 4500w element run on 120v runs at 1125w, so together they are 2250w. You can also go with 5500w elements giving 1375w each.

The 4500w HWD elements are only $6.73 each HERE and LWD are $10.32.

Also I should say, when you run a 240v HWD element, it becomes a ULWD element. Look at the 4500w element, it's 13.5" total length, so probably somewhere around 26" of element giving about 43w per inch.

Palefire 11-19-2011 06:15 PM

Here's a LWD 120V 2000W Element: Rheem SP10868GL 120V 2000W Stainless Steel Element. I just installed this and used it a few days ago. Used it to replace an HD element that had popped (was doing recirculating BIAB, and as far as I can tell, a pocket of air got created below the bag, so the element popped).

I use 2 120V circuits for my 5-gallon rig. One 1500W element and one 2000W element in the kettle. I have no trouble boiling. When I figure out what to ferment in, I'm planning on moving to 7.5 gallon batches.

Before the HD element popped, though, I'd done about 5 batches with it, with no scorching whatsoever. The 1500W element is still HD.


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