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Old 11-14-2012, 06:10 AM   #521
PacificNWBrewer
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Hello, love this forum! Great ideas and great people.

I have a question... In this link (http://www.wortomatic.com/articles/B...Electric-Stand) the guy uses a CFC as both a HERMS and a chiller. I wondered why more people don't do this? I mean, a CFC is just a heat exchanger right... Instead of just cooling my wort when I'm done, I want to keep it hot or hotter while I'm brewing . Is it sanitation reasons? What do you guys think?

Also I know SS is better than copper but its a PiTA to bend to your will unless you buy it pre-made ($$$$) or have tools to make it so. Just wondering benefits to either.

I'm planning to build my ebrewery soon and have begun buying parts here and there as I go along.

Thanks again!
D

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Old 11-15-2012, 01:57 AM   #522
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PacificNWBrewer
the guy uses a CFC as both a HERMS and a chiller. I wondered why more people don't do this? I mean, a CFC is just a heat exchanger right... Instead of just cooling my wort when I'm done, I want to keep it hot or hotter while I'm brewing . Is it sanitation reasons? What do you guys think?

Also I know SS is better than copper but its a PiTA to bend to your will unless you buy it pre-made ($$$$) or have tools to make it so. Just wondering benefits to either.
I was asking this question a couple months ago. Now i am in the process of selling my immersion chillers. I had one as a prechiller in icewater and the other in the beer. Once i finished building my e-brewery, i tested out the herms. Basically, at some point during the boil, i hook up the hoses and sanitize a pump and the herms by pumping boiling wort through it and back into the boil keggle. After the boil, i fill my hlt with about 10gal of cold tap water and start the pump. As the pump runs, the 64 degree hlt and the bk start to even out. When it starts to feel like the temp is taking longer to adjust, i start draining a bucket of hot water out of the hlt and replacing it with a bucket of cold. After doing this about 3-4 times, the boil keggle is down to about 120 degrees. I fill up the hlt with cold water and then empty my icemaker into the bucket and dump it in the hlt. I then take the herms output coil hose into the carboy and slow the flow to a trickle. Beer comes out at about 80 degrees. By the time i fill two carboys and get them set up with a blanket and blowoff tubes, i am ready to pitch.

Making a herms from ss coil was the hardest part of the brewery. If you want a more informative rant, just pm me and i'll share whatever advice I can.
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Old 01-24-2013, 04:16 PM   #523
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Just read this thread P1, P20 onwards. Great build! Can you step me through your post-brew CIP process.?

Thanks!

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Old 01-24-2013, 09:30 PM   #524
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Just read this thread P1, P20 onwards. Great build!
Thanks!


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Can you step me through your post-brew CIP process.?

Thanks!
Sure! I top off the HLT with more water after the sparge, and heat to about 170 during the boil. Once the boil is done I'll rinse the kettle and scrub any heavy debris out of it via the bottom dump valve. Then I take that hot water from the HLT and add PBW, then pump that mixture through all the valves, both pumps, the kettle, and the chiller. Empty, rinse with cold water, then pump cold water through the same route that I pumped the hot PBW water.

Lately I've been doing the CIP just prior to brew day, or the morning of. That way I know there isn't anything crawling, growing, or rotting in any of the equipment before I start to brew.
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1. Bourbon Barrel Imperial Oatmeal Stout 2. Oktoberfest 3. IPA 4. Pale Ale 5.[Nitrogen] Dry Stout
Primary:
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Secondary:
1. Brett Ale 2. none 3. none 4. none
Bottled:
About 36 gallons of beer & 4.2 gallons of mead
Kegged & conditioning:
Breakfast Stout x2, Belgian Dubbel, Chocolate Milk Stout, Pale Ale, German Pilsner x2 (lagering), German Pils (Ale) x2
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Old 01-25-2013, 01:43 PM   #525
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...Then I take that hot water from the HLT and add PBW, then pump that mixture through all the valves, both pumps, the kettle, and the chiller. Empty, rinse with cold water, then pump cold water through the same route that I pumped the hot PBW water.
Sounds easy enough, anything that's difficult to clean or something you'd add to make it easier? Brewing is cleaning I always say, so anything that can make cleaning easier, makes brewing easier.

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...Lately I've been doing the CIP just prior to brew day, or the morning of. That way I know there isn't anything crawling, growing, or rotting in any of the equipment before I start to brew.
Good idea. In the breweries and bev plants I have worked in, they CIP at the end of the day and leave the lines full of sanitizer till the next AM.

You've given me some great ideas for my build, I'm still collecting parts and I'll be sure to start a build thread when its time. Thanks TB.
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Old 01-25-2013, 04:06 PM   #526
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So I decided to not buy/use an immersion chiller and instead is my HERMS to both heat and cool. During mashing the HERMS holds the temp I want. When mashing is finished, I run sparge water through it into the MLT to help clear out all the good liquid. After its transferred to the BK and I've started boiling, I run hot PBW throught the HERMS do about 10-15 minutes then rinse completely with fresh hot water. I save the PBW water for later. Ill even run sanitizer through it for a bit just to be sure its sterile. At the end of boil, i dump 3 bags of ice into my HLT with a small amount of water and recirculate the boiling wort though the coil to cool it. When the ice melts, wort is about 100-120 and I dumb the HLT water into my MT (use to help clean that later) and dump 3 more bags of ice over the coils. This gets me down to 70 and it only takes 5-7 minutes from flameout to fermenter. Works amazingly fast!!! At 70, I start adding o2 and it goes into the fermenter. Done and done.

That k you for the advice! It works very well!

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Old 01-25-2013, 10:23 PM   #527
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Sounds easy enough, anything that's difficult to clean or something you'd add to make it easier? Brewing is cleaning I always say, so anything that can make cleaning easier, makes brewing easier.
The most difficult to clean by far is the kettle. I just use hot water and a 3M pad to get the majority of the gunk off, then the subsequent PBW soak tends to take care of the rest. What's left behind after that is negligible.

Quote:
Good idea. In the breweries and bev plants I have worked in, they CIP at the end of the day and leave the lines full of sanitizer till the next AM.
You could do that. You'll still need to do a thorough rinse the next morning, though (assuming you're using a cleanser, not a sanitizer).

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You've given me some great ideas for my build, I'm still collecting parts and I'll be sure to start a build thread when its time. Thanks TB.
Sounds good! Glad to help.

TB
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On tap:
1. Bourbon Barrel Imperial Oatmeal Stout 2. Oktoberfest 3. IPA 4. Pale Ale 5.[Nitrogen] Dry Stout
Primary:
1. Lambic 2. Lambic 3. Amber Ale 4. Amber Ale 5. none 6. none
Secondary:
1. Brett Ale 2. none 3. none 4. none
Bottled:
About 36 gallons of beer & 4.2 gallons of mead
Kegged & conditioning:
Breakfast Stout x2, Belgian Dubbel, Chocolate Milk Stout, Pale Ale, German Pilsner x2 (lagering), German Pils (Ale) x2
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Old 02-28-2013, 01:14 PM   #528
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This build is fantastic and has giving me inspiration to start my own. Thank you Tiber, P-J, Kal, and everyone else who has shared their knowledge in this thread. I will be stealing all your great ideas for my own build. .

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Old 02-28-2013, 05:38 PM   #529
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Wow! Just discovered this thread. What a fantastic tutorial you've created. I'm now seriously considering the switch from manual propane to electric hermes.
Thanks for making this a viable option...rather than just a pipe dream.
Best regards,
Keith

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Old 02-28-2013, 05:44 PM   #530
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I just found/realized a new reason want electric: I tried to brew over the weekend (my returning batch of beer) and discovered (or re-remembered) that a propane tank simply will not heat up 6 gallons of wort to a boil in a snowstorm.

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