Electric Brewery Build with Coolers.
I am in the process of building an ebrew system using two, 10 gallon Depot coolers and an 11 gallon SS BK. I will be installing a 30amp GFCI breaker to my panel and running a 10-3 line to a 30 amp (125/250V) 4 wire turn lock outlet (smaller than dryer outlet).
I will be building a control panel using one that PJ designed on another thread that seams to be dead. The panel will be running two 5500w elements. One will be in the HLT and the other will be in the BK. The plan is designed to use only one PID and to operate only one element at a time.
I will be using one pump and one motor to mix HLT water both will be connected to the panel.
THe HLT will have a copper heat exchanger coil that will recirculate to maintain mash temps.
For chilling, I will be building whirlpool immersion chiller.
If anybody has any suggestions or see any problems in my thoughts or direction, I would really appreciate!
I think you chose a really good plan for your setup.
Please let me know if I can help and advise you in your adventure.
Here is my planned parts lists so far:
(1) Three way, 2 NO contact switch
(2) Two way, 1 NO Contact switch
(3) Blue LED push button 2-way switch
(2) Yellow 220V 22m LED
(1) Mushroom Button, NO ( I think I want normally open anyways.) contact
(1) Flashing buzzer
(2) XLR Female plug
(2) XLR Chassis mount male jack
(1) 1/2 Meter DIN rail.
(1) 25 amp 2 pole breaker
(1) 16 amp single pole breaker.
Also thinking of adding a keyed 2-way 1 NO Contact, switch. Not sure what people think of these but I was thinking it might be good to lock it up for the kiddos.
(1) Large Controller Enclosure
(1) SYL- 2352 PID
(2) Liquid tight K type, 4 in probe, 1/2 NPT Thread
(1) 40amp SSR
(1) External Mount Heat Sink for 60A SSR (Not sure if there is a cheaper and better way to go for this.)
(2) Contactor, 2 pole, 30A, 120V Coil
(2) Camco 02963 5500w 240v screw in water heater lime life ripple element - ultra low wat density.
(Many) Terminal connectors.
(Many) Self adhesive tie mounts.
(Many) Zip ties.
(4) Switchcraft Male 502-HPCC4F (One each for the elements, pump, and stir motor.)
(4) Switchcraft Female receptacles 502-HPCP41F1
(4) Terminal Block Interface Module DIN mountable
I think that should be close to everything. I just want to make sure I have all of the right stuff.
(25ft) THHN 14 awg stranded 105c*600 volt wire (Black)
(25ft) THNN 10 awg stranded 105c*600 volt wire (Orange)
Hey guys, I am planning to pull the trigger on my list and just want to be absolutely sure that I am getting compatible and correct components. Would someone be able to give me the thumbs up on this list. Thanks and happy New Years everyone!
I am in the process of building something almost identical. The only difference is that i'm going to use 2 PIDs and a timer instead of 1 PID. How do you plan to mount the element in the cooler. I'm torn if I should go through the bottom of the cooler or the side.
Have you looked into the different temperature probes from Auberin? I'm going to go with the RTD PT100-L50NPT with delux cable. It's more pricey but it can be threaded into a 1/2" tee and the delux cable comes with a mount for the control panel. I'm not sure if this set-up will work for you as mine will be mounted on the ball valve of the HLT and monitor the water there as it is recirculated by a pump, not a motorized stirrer.
Also I've decided use switch craft receptacles and plugs instead of the flanged outlet/receptacle. This will save a bit of money and will the cord to the element to unplugged from both ends. Below are a few links. This was not my idea but recommended as an alternative by another member who's name I can't recall now. If you search switch craft it might up.
Switch craft plug 502-hpcc4f http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Switchcraft/HPCC4F/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvxO7XFMojgsNwp9BDEFdAh
Switchcraft cord rect 502-hpcp41f1
I have ordered both my SSR and heat sink from ebrewsupply. The SSR is rated for 40amp and has definitely been used with success for the 5500 watt elements. I'm not sure if this is a better choice than the one you mentioned from amazon.
The only other things I added to my order were terminal ends and self adhesive tie mounts from amazon, a DIN rail and mountable breakers single and double pole from ebrew supply, and mountable distribution blocks from mouser. These specific ones look very convenient and were recommended by Kevin. http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Altech/CDB6-2/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuHSyTciuLGfyDUOU3oHpiE
Your coolers look beautiful by the way and I look forward to the finished product.
I have no experience with using an electric element in a plastic cooler... if the plastic holds up, you need to make sure you ground the cooler (water) some how, otherwise you could have a very bad day.
If you're pumping your wort through the HEX, then why not put a short temperature probe in a Tee right off the outlet from the MLT? Then you would be measuring the actual temperature of the wort as it leaves the mash tun, and could adjust the HLT from there.
Great advice guys!
Is there a reason to use two PID's over just one? I thought that you would need two just incase you wanted to do back to back batches. I was thinking that since I am only using a 30amp breaker that it would probably be best to only use one element at a time. Also saving some money by only having to use one PID. I think the only thing that I will have to do is unplug the temp sensor for one and plug in the other?
As of right now, I was thinking of mounting the elements in the cooler through the sides. For only the reason that it would allow me to use more water. I was thinking that the higher the water needed to be to keep the element wet, that more likely it would be for me to burn the thing out. I considered a float switch but didnt want to add just another thing, so for now, side mounting.
As far as which kind of sensor, I really didn't know which one to get. Your idea of putting into a 2" tee is a great one, and BadnewsBrewery has also a good point on taking wort temps and adjusting HLT accordingly. I think that is probably the way to go.
Yes, I will be grounding the cooler. There are few examples of it out there, I just need to follow directions. Thanks for the reiteration of how important that is.
I will definitely be checking out those receptacles! Thanks for the heads up. Saving money anywhere would be great since these projects always cost more than anticipated! Haha!
Oh, and I need to add a heat sink also! Oops left that one out...
The SSR's at ebrewsupply are all sold out, so I was searching on Amazon and found that one. I wasnt sure if it would work though.
By adding the DIN rail and breakers, would I need to update the schematics or is it pretty self explanatory? Yes, terminal ends and tie mounts, I will add also!
Thanks! THis info is really helpful! I will update my list soon as it is time to start drinking some beer for the New Year!
Happy New Year Guys!
Good luck with those purchase orders. Give that credit card a workout! haha
my only thought is if you are already putting a herms coil in the hlt why not throw ice in the hlt and use the herms coil as your chiller also?
Here is an example of my wiring diagram with utilization of the second PID and the breakers. I have to attach it as a pdf as the JPEG version is terrible quality.
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