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Old 11-28-2012, 02:39 PM   #11
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Ok still researching this, and still want to have my control panel like the one in this crude drawing. What size box would I need. Could I fit everything in a 6x6 enclosure that's 4" deep?





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Old 11-28-2012, 02:48 PM   #12
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I'm assuming you're boiling outside? I do as well and tend to play with the gas to increase or decrease the heat but I think that is more to adjust for wind than anything. Inside I don't think this will be as big a deal. And yeah, keep the lid off.



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Old 11-28-2012, 02:53 PM   #13
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Ok still researching this, and still want to have my control panel like the one in this crude drawing. What size box would I need. Could I fit everything in a 6x6 enclosure that's 4" deep?
I don't know which PID you're wanting to use but the Auber ones are 100mm (3.93") deep. Not much of the PID is on the outside so it's going to be very close against the back and it may not be enough as 4" deep may be the outside of the enclosure, not the inside.

Remember that it's not just the stuff on the outside, but the stuff on the inside you need to fit in as well. All the wiring, and other things like SSRs, outlets, relays, and so on. Without knowing how much "stuff" you need to cram in there it's impossible to say if it'll work but I'll go on a limb and say "no" as the switches will take up half the inside room too. You need room for a PWM circuit board. It'll be rediculously tight and impossible work on (IMHO).


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Old 11-28-2012, 03:57 PM   #14
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I don't know which PID you're wanting to use but the Auber ones are 100mm (3.93") deep. Not much of the PID is on the outside so it's going to be very close against the back and it may not be enough as 4" deep may be the outside of the enclosure, not the inside.

Remember that it's not just the stuff on the outside, but the stuff on the inside you need to fit in as well. All the wiring, and other things like SSRs, outlets, relays, and so on. Without knowing how much "stuff" you need to cram in there it's impossible to say if it'll work but I'll go on a limb and say "no" as the switches will take up half the inside room too. You need room for a PWM circuit board. It'll be rediculously tight and impossible work on (IMHO).

Kal
I want a master switch, switch to switch mash mode/off/boil mode, PID, PWM, a switch for a pump and switch for exhaust fan.

I've also seen 8"x8"x6" enclosures, would this work?
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Old 11-28-2012, 04:51 PM   #15
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Again, you're only naming the things that go on the outside. What about the things on the inside? You need room for them too. What about SSRs, receptacles, a heat sink (which should be outside actually), relays, and so on. I'm not sure how you're building/designing this thing but get your design 100% complete with all the parts figured out first. I'm not sure what parts you actually need inside as I don't know how you plan to build this.

I would even suggest getting all the parts first and seeing how much room they take up and *THEN* buying an enclosure to fit them all.

You also need some room to work. It's impossible (and not safe) to have zero wiring clearance inside the enclosure.

It also depends on how wires attach to the devices. Some may have wires coming out the bottom, some the side. You may need to leave room to get a screwdriver or other tools in there.

It also depends on the type of enclosure you talk about. If it's one where the backplate can be removed then it's a bit easier to wire since you can do it externally and then install the loaded backplate into the enclosure. The caveat to this is that that eats indo the depth of the enclosure. If it's a simple box with no backplate you have to figure out how you're going to mount things and if it's even possible to get a screwdriver or similar in there to wire things up in the first place.

Even if you were list every single part that goes inside and outside of the box and provided extreme details on these items and how the enclosure is made, I'm not sure anyone can answer this question for you without out them doing what I mentioned above: Buying all the parts and trying to figure out a layout that works and see how big it is.

So that's what I suggest you do: Buying all the parts and figure out a layout that works and see how big it is. There are enclosures of every shape and size available no matter how big or small you need this to be. The enclosure should be the last thing you buy, not the first.

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Old 11-28-2012, 04:58 PM   #16
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I've also seen 8"x8"x6" enclosures, would this work?

looks like you drew that on a 11 '' x 8 1/2 '' paper, would you be comfortable using that layout? if so there are 2 of 3 dimensions! depth should be at least 8'' in my opinion, jim (2 cents worth)

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Old 11-28-2012, 05:19 PM   #17
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looks like you drew that on a 11 '' x 8 1/2 '' paper, would you be comfortable using that layout? if so there are 2 of 3 dimensions! depth should be at least 8'' in my opinion, jim (2 cents worth)
IMHO you're assuming the drawing is to scale (not sure) and that there's nothing of consequence inside the box. I'm not sure those are valid assumptions.

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Old 11-28-2012, 09:42 PM   #18
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IMHO you're assuming the drawing is to scale (not sure) and that there's nothing of consequence inside the box. I'm not sure those are valid assumptions.

Kal
Thanks both you guys. I would like something small, same size as the paper if it could work but I know it's not to scale. Guess I'll just have to wait until I but everything to see what enclosure I need!
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Old 11-28-2012, 11:01 PM   #19
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FYI my biab design uses a phase angle ssr for dial boil control and pid relay output to enable/disable 220v power contractor for mash temp control. I used a 8x11x6 enclosure with only one ssr and one contractor inside the panel.

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Old 11-28-2012, 11:58 PM   #20
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FYI my biab design uses a phase angle ssr for dial boil control and pid relay output to enable/disable 220v power contractor for mash temp control. I used a 8x11x6 enclosure with only one ssr and one contractor inside the panel.
Must be a really tiny contractor to fit inside the panel. Perhaps a subcontractor rather than a general contractor?


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