So I'm in the process of powering on my new control panel, and keep triggering my GFI, I have gone through my wiring and can't find any shorts or loose connections, But I think there might be an issue with the eGCFI .It appears I it is being tripped when one leg is accessed to power the 120VAC stuff. I bought this off ebay for 20, so If its the problem Oh well.
It was a three wire eGFCI power cord for a carrier 240VAC air conditioner. what I did was rewire it to a four wire dryer pigtail. I opened it up and saw that the two hot leads went through the circuity, and the green ground/neutral bypassed all the circuitry. I rewired the two hot leads of the dryer plug through the eCFCI and left the white neutral and green ground unchanged, and just ran it on the outside of the housing.
when I plug the power cord/eGFCI in to the dryer outlet, it powers up fine, and I can test and reset it just fine. when I plug the twist lock into the panel it is fine.
For my system I have a key on and two lighted switches before the main power relay is switched on. The key switches on power to the wireless router, the first switch switches on the power for the BCS-460, and the final switch turns on the main power mechanical relay.
Now when I turn the key to power up the router, if the router if connected it trips the eGFCI. But if the router is not plugged in it will not trip it, but if it press the lighted switch to turn on the BCS it will trip the circuit, or plug in the router.
I guess what I am getting at, is there a way to get this to work? or should I scrap it and install a spa panel, like everyone else? :mug:
Your GFCI cord is only monitoring the 2 hot lines by design. The original 3rd wire was ground for an AC unit. Now with your modified setup, the GFCI is still only monitoring the 2 hots. When you connect any 120V devices the current path for it is through one of the GFCI lines and that current is then returned through the neutral. This is an unbalanced load as seen by that GFCI unit.
You must use a GFCI that monitors the 2 hots and the neutral whenever you use it for 120/240V applications.
Read through that post.
Edit:: PJ beat me, anyways that post pretty much sums up what PJ just stated.
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