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Old 09-06-2012, 09:09 PM   #1
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Default eBIAB controller & pump, in a toolbox - questions

I'm starting to collect the parts for my eBIAB system and had a couple of questions. Here are the specs:

240V, 30A via a spa panel connected to a dryer outlet
-1 PID/SSR, 1 5500W element
-4 switches:
- mushroom button - main power (using a contactor, not resistors)
- Alarm
- Element power - via contactor
- pump
-120v case fan - although i'm using an external heatsink, I'm going to include the pump motor in the control enclosure (toolbox).
-120v accessory outlet
-chugger center inlet pump (head mounted outside toolbox)

The element and pump switches are illuminated. I'm adding an LED between the PID and SSR to show when element is hot. Another LED for main power.

All of the major components have been ordered. Now I'm just trying to figure out what I need for wiring, terminal blocks, fuses, ring terminals, etc. Can anyone shed some light on how much wire I should buy? I plan to use 10 AWG for anything in the element power circuit, but the pump circuit, LEDs and controls can all be 14 AWG, right?

My other concern is a backpanel for inside the toolbox. Is using a piece of sheet metal the easiest option? Thoughts on gauge?

Finally - I bought the 19" Homak hip-roof toolbox for an enclosure. Pump motor will be through the right wall, looking down from the top. Is that going to leave me enough room for all these other components, or am wishfully thinking?

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Old 12-09-2012, 02:51 AM   #2
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Any updates on your project?

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Old 12-09-2012, 07:08 PM   #3
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Not too much to report. Been a busy fall! I decided to leave the pump outside the box. Either mount it in another box for portability, or mount it to the BIAB stand I'm also planning. All the components are bought, and I figured out what to do for a back panel. I'm using a sheet of 16 gauge sheet metal from HD, with 1/2" bolts through it to raise it off the bottom. Most holes are drilled for mounting the internal components. Next step is to cut the holes for the controls, then start wiring.

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Old 12-09-2012, 10:25 PM   #4
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Sounds like it's coming along great. I just started working on converting my propane BIAB system to all electric. I also was going to have the pump inside my panel but changed it to mount on the stand as well. I'd love to see some pictures as time permits.

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Old 02-14-2013, 04:59 PM   #5
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Default image test

Just testing my ability to post an image




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Old 02-14-2013, 05:25 PM   #6
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Default Forward progress at last!

Finally found some time to work on the controller. Here are some shots of the progress so far. The test pic above shows the front of the toolbox under construction. I also have two contactors and terminal block mounted to the back panel. Just ordered a ratcheting crimper and hope to start wiring in the next few days.


You can see here where my pilot bit snapped and the hole saw skipped across the side of the toolbox. Nothing some nail polish can't fix!


Beginning to test fit the controls


Here's the hole for the SSR to attach to the heat sink.


Supply side


Controls all fit! (not without a couple of rounds of tweaking with the Dremel)


Load side, plus thermocouple quick disconnect. Can also see the heat sink on the back in this shot.


Internals, minus the SSR and back panel, which holds the contactors, terminal block, and fuses.


Thanks for taking a look! I will post more pics as I start wiring. Let me know if you have any questions or want to see anything specific.

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Old 02-14-2013, 06:08 PM   #7
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Here's a shot of the front with some labels:

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Old 02-14-2013, 06:11 PM   #8
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This is really neat, real professional look to it.

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Old 02-14-2013, 06:17 PM   #9
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Looks great.

You may want to wire your "element on" indicator in parallel with the wiring to the element (assuming it's a 240v led). That's a more certain indicator as to whether there is power going to the element.

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Old 02-14-2013, 07:29 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CDGoin View Post
This is really neat, real professional look to it.
Thanks! I really appreciate that, considering this is my first time doing any kind of metal work.


Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffmeh View Post
Looks great.

You may want to wire your "element on" indicator in parallel with the wiring to the element (assuming it's a 240v led). That's a more certain indicator as to whether there is power going to the element.
Thanks as well! Great idea, and part of my plan. The element switch (red push button) is illuminated and will indicate power is AVAILABLE to the circuit. The yellow LED will only light up when the PID is sending a signal to energize the element.
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