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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > ebay PID
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Old 09-11-2012, 06:02 AM   #1
rockinmarty
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Default ebay PID

Has anyone tried this pid
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/PID-Digital-T...item4d03e80e1a

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Old 09-11-2012, 10:49 AM   #2
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Yea I have a couple sitting in my garage. They are real pieces of crap. Mine won't work in ssr mode, relay mode only. Only display in C. only works at 240volts. Basically completely not as advertised. I did buy mine from a different seller though. I tried to return them, but the return shipping which I would of had to pay was more than what I had into them. I made the seller return me half of what I paid. Ended up going with Auber in the end.

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Old 09-16-2012, 04:21 AM   #3
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I've been down this path and it leads to buying an Auber in the end. I don't have this particular PID but picked up a couple Mypin PIDs for cheap off e-bay. They work and I use them for my Sous-Vide machine but none of the cheap ones offer the functionality (manual mode) needed for brewing. You'll save money by buying the best to start--get an Auber.

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I had no problems whatsoever getting my pee to ferment.
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Old 09-16-2012, 11:31 PM   #4
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I just spent 6 hours yesterday messing with one of the cheap knock off eBay PID controllers. It's not the model you have, but it looks just like an Auber and has all the same features as this one: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...roducts_id=106

It's a total piece of crap. I had a problem a while go where the thermocouple posts came un-soldered from the board and I had to fix it. The temp would jump all over the place if you shook it. It started doing it again last week. I took it apart and re-flowed all of the solder joints I could reach because it looked like a 5 year old soldered it. It's now working well, but a resistor or capacitor the thermocouple uses is messed up, so the temp is off by 35 degrees. It does have an offset so I can correct for the error and it's useable now, but I would have been much happier to pay $20 more for the real thing.

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Old 09-17-2012, 02:32 AM   #5
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There are other posts discussing the PIDs labeled "REX C-100". Apparently, these cheap ones are Chinese counterfeits, and total pieces of crap. If you read the specs and look at the photos showing the wiring diagrams, they are nothing like the title suggests.

There are real Rex PIDs, but they are much more expensive.

My recomendation: if this is your first jump into using a PID, I would go with Auber.

I just ordered a MyPin TA4 PID. Sounds like others are having luck with those.

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Old 09-17-2012, 03:54 AM   #6
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I have 2 of the MyPin TA6 Pids that come with the type K and the 25A SSR, they've been working OK ...as I recall the package was $35

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Old 09-17-2012, 01:39 PM   #7
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The MyPins work OK but they're much more difficult to program and don't have a manual mode to control boils. The instructions written in English-is-definitely-not-my-first-language don't help the situation either. They are cheap though, so if you already know how to use a PID and don't need to control a boil they can work.

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I had no problems whatsoever getting my pee to ferment.
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Old 09-17-2012, 06:38 PM   #8
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Quote:
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The MyPins work OK but they're much more difficult to program and don't have a manual mode to control boils.
Good point. I have a PWM on my system for boiling, so I always forget about the manual boil mode in these discussions.

Maybe as a public service I can translate the MyPin manual sheet from Chinglish to English.
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Old 09-18-2012, 03:48 PM   #9
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Quote:
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Good point. I have a PWM on my system for boiling, so I always forget about the manual boil mode in these discussions.
Same here, I only use the PIDs for the HLT and the MLT.
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Old 10-03-2012, 07:19 PM   #10
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Default help with progam on TA6

I too, have a TA6 and I'm having problems with the programing and of course, there is no help from the company that sold it or the manufacturer.

I have been able to wire it correctly, and set a heating temp. When checking to see if it's working, I am using a light buld instead of a heating element.
when it is heating towards the required temp, the light stays on. But, within 10* of the target temp, the light bulb begins to flash untill it reaches temp and then shuts off.

I realize that if the bulb is flashing on and off, then the current would be doing the same to a heating element, and worse, it will cause premature failure to the solid state relay.

Can somone please tell me where I am going wrong???
Thanks in advance,
Brian
916-804-0175

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