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Old 12-03-2013, 02:03 AM   #51
emyers
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Pid is now wired in using the new box. Low alarm is set up to control the hlt 5500w till 150F and the relay output controls the 3500w to maintain temp.

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Old 01-04-2014, 12:51 AM   #52
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Slight change of plans. I realized after the fact that i mounted my elements on the wrong side of the kegs. The wires not only hang over the MT but they have to loop around both BK and HLT. However this seems to work to my benefit. I plan to move everything to the corner in my garage 6 feet left and on the opposite side of the breaker box and outlets. This should not only fix my wiring issue but also save space for my other hobbies and only dirty the corner right near the garage door.. aka my clean up drain. I also plan to install a sheet or two of FRP (plastic panels) from home depot to waterproof the corner.



On the backburner is plans to use two 55 gal rain barrels i have as cooling water. Inspired by a method i saw on moonshiners by the industrial still. Crap show but every once in a while there is some jem info. A cheap high vol sump pump and plumbing attaching the two drums should do it.

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Old 01-04-2014, 03:17 AM   #53
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Why the two elements vs just using the 5500w element with a $25 manual mode capable pid? I've have great success controlling and dialing the boil right in where I want it.
Guess I just got lucky with all three of my "cheap" pids and ssrs..... no issues so far. And I have one 25 and one 40 amp one.. with heat sinks and thermal grease though.
Very strange yours overheated when you weren't even: using them as intended.... they are designed to be able to switch on and off really fast by a pid which wold make them run hotter than just on 100% controlled by a knob unless I'm missing something? It does see like something else could be the culprit.

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Old 04-23-2014, 03:02 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by augiedoggy View Post
Why the two elements vs just using the 5500w element with a $25 manual mode capable pid? I've have great success controlling and dialing the boil right in where I want it.
Guess I just got lucky with all three of my "cheap" pids and ssrs..... no issues so far. And I have one 25 and one 40 amp one.. with heat sinks and thermal grease though.
Very strange yours overheated when you weren't even: using them as intended.... they are designed to be able to switch on and off really fast by a pid which wold make them run hotter than just on 100% controlled by a knob unless I'm missing something? It does see like something else could be the culprit.
Because 9000W>5500W faster ramping. I had heat sinks and thermal grease, it was just faulty relays. I purchased relays from a reputable source and haven't had any issues since.
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Old 05-07-2014, 03:11 AM   #55
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Starting to re arrange the brewery. Leveled out the corner to drain water out the garage door better.

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Old 09-06-2014, 01:15 PM   #56
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Race season is over, i now have some time to finish the brewery. I just got my second auberins PID in the mail yesterday for the BK. Ill be removing the 3500w element from the BK and just using a 5500w on a PID with an alarm for manual control near boil. The 3500w just had too much heat density for boiling high gravity beers. The HLT will stay with both elements to help temp ramping speed. I plan to move the brewery this fall and polish up the kegs a bit too.

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Old 09-13-2014, 03:10 AM   #57
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BK pid is wired in minus the probe that's in the mail. I plan to get an alarm now for switching to manual nearing boil. Going to start polishing the mash tun tomorrow.

File Type: jpg IMG_20140912_225444_699.jpg (75.1 KB, 78 views)
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Old 09-13-2014, 11:58 PM   #58
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Hit up the MT with a flap wheel today. Need to buy some finer grit flap wheels and sandpaper to get a better shine. Goo gone aka lemon or orange terpenes worked perfectly for removing sticker glue.

I picked up eight 6' lengths of 14 ga stranded wire in different colors to wire up my bigger box. Should make wiring a breeze.

File Type: jpg IMG_20140913_195309_927.jpg (130.4 KB, 68 views)
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