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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > E keggle build
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Old 04-29-2013, 10:18 PM   #31
emyers
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My HLT overflow protect switch came in today. Jr says it passes QC. I wish my element protect switches were in.

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Old 04-30-2013, 07:58 PM   #32
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Finished all the wiring last night. Should be doing a test tonight and brew tomorrow!

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Old 05-01-2013, 02:13 AM   #33
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ITS ALIVEEEE!!!!!

I tested it out with 3 gals in each, switches between elements perfectly. The box worked but its real tight in there especially with the large computer power supply. It will work but its real tight especially with my rats nest wiring. This should hold me over until i have additional funds to go automated and get a proper large box.

Brew tomorrow with a 33 lbs grain bill . I'll have to lift the wort up to the boil kettle since i have no pump, the drop is not enough for my tiny CFC. I badly need to upgrade to a CFC with a 1/2 copper coil.

my 2' 3/8" SS rod came in today.. well it was supposed to.. instead i got an empty box with a 3/8 hole in the bottom. Luckily its amazon so ill have it replaced no problem. This will be the stir rod for my HLT. Ill be making a SS prop with the keg cutouts.

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Old 05-01-2013, 02:16 AM   #34
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anyone know why the master switch wont work? It turns the system on but wont light up. I have one of the legs that supplies the power supply running 240v hooked up to it. That should be pushing 120v thru it no?

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Old 05-01-2013, 03:46 AM   #35
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take a pic of the back of the switch

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Old 05-02-2013, 05:15 AM   #36
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I realize now what is needed to light up the switch. I need to wire it like in the third pic on this item description,

http://www.ebrewsupply.com/indicator...sh-button.html

Sadly i was not able to brew. I will have to hold off till monday. On the up side my float switches came in from china so i can wire in the element protection circuit before then.

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Old 05-06-2013, 06:05 PM   #37
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I fixed the master switch, ran the wire thru the light circuit so it lights up when on.

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Old 05-09-2013, 04:18 PM   #38
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Finally got to brewing yesterday. My manual mash recirc sucked dumping three gals into a 3000w turkey fry pot to adjust temp.

I ran into an issue. My 5500w SSRs stay on when turned off. Its only after they have been on for a bit. Any ideas why this is happening?

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Old 05-22-2013, 03:15 AM   #39
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I got my hands on a nice big waterproof box to upgrade to. This should be big enough to run everything i would ever dream to expand to. Its 24"x 18" and like 10" deep. It has a few holes but i can easily make use of them, nothing excessive. Best of all it has some hardware i can use. I'm not sure what the control box is for, but im sure its not a brew controller.

BTW i still have not figured out why the SSRs that control the 5500w elements stay when they have been on for a while. The 3500w are wired the same exact way and dont have an issue.The SSR's are rated at 40A so its not like im over powering it either. I can swap between the two as designed when only doing so for a few seconds. Once the elements have been on for a min or two it seems to freeze the SSR in the on position and allows me to turn on two 5500w elements at the same time.... on the same 30A leg :O Does anyone have any recommendations to help?

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Old 05-22-2013, 10:00 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emyers View Post
BTW i still have not figured out why the SSRs that control the 5500w elements stay when they have been on for a while. The 3500w are wired the same exact way and dont have an issue.The SSR's are rated at 40A so its not like im over powering it either. I can swap between the two as designed when only doing so for a few seconds. Once the elements have been on for a min or two it seems to freeze the SSR in the on position and allows me to turn on two 5500w elements at the same time.... on the same 30A leg :O Does anyone have any recommendations to help?
When one of the SSRs is locked "on," have you checked the control voltage from the PID to the SSR? If the PID is sending the voltage signal, then there is something wrong on the PID side. If not, then it's on the SSR side. It could be PID settings, a bad PID, a bad SSR, or improper wiring.
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