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Old 04-16-2013, 01:44 AM   #11
emyers
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Hmmm..... anyone know why the hell i ordered 3 sight gauges? oops... I mean i guess i can run one on the mash tun but why??

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Old 04-16-2013, 01:56 AM   #12
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Don't you love realizing you got a bit click-happy? I have four male polysulfone QD's I have no idea what to do with. D'oh!

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Old 04-20-2013, 02:28 AM   #13
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Boil kettle drilling and mounting complete. For the element mounts I used a small step drill to start then a carbide on a 1/4 electric die grinder to open it up. Got a hot piece of metal stuck to my lower eyelid even with safety glasses.. yea that sucked.

The elements will be getting 1"-1"npt PVC adapters filled with JB weld as housings. I have a yeast starter going now, hopefully i can do a half assed brew with the new rig next week. It will definitely be a ghetto brew rig configuration for that brew, tiered on my workbench and toolbox with 4x4's and 2x4's holding the kegs up for the valves.

I plan to put the gallon markers up the next time i have free time, hopefully tomorrow.

015.jpg   013.jpg  
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Old 04-20-2013, 01:32 PM   #14
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Last night I realized using any sort of hop blocker on the bottom will be a PITA with the elements. So I ordered a 18"x32" coarse nylon mesh bag to make a hop spider. Should make cleanup easier too.

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Old 04-21-2013, 02:53 PM   #15
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Ordered stage one of my control box today. Two 3 way switches to swap the elements between the kettles, 4 LED's to show when the elements are on, one LED master switch, and a mushroom E stop. I also got two SS float switches for element safety switches. They will be wired in series on the control side of the SSR's. The switches will open the circuit when water goes below the element level. I also plan to run a stir motor on the HLT going off the element control circuit to prevent temperature layering.

I just finished my HLT element and sight gauge mounting. I didn't split the 5500w into a V like in the boil kettle because heat density and cleaning isn't an issue with just water. To clear the elements i bent the 5500w at the first bend by hand over the keg rim as a bending surface.

Why you should always wear goggles when grinding and not glasses.

brew-rig-build-001.jpg   img_20130422_075649_204.jpg   brew-rig-build-002.jpg  
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Old 04-23-2013, 02:18 AM   #16
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I made my connectors for the elements today. I used 1" knockouts and 1" female pvc to 1" female NPT adapters. The NPT is tapered so the knockouts wouldnt thread in more than 2 threads. A few seconds on the torch melted the pvc threads a bit to thread fully. I dont plan to move my kettle or HLT so everything will be hard wired, the other side of these wires will go right to the SSR's. Now to find some 10-3 for the 5500w side.

brew-010.jpg   brew-012.jpg   brew-017.jpg   brew-018.jpg   brew-026.jpg  

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Old 04-23-2013, 02:32 AM   #17
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I also made a hop spider with a paint can and 5 gal strainer. Total cost around $10. Its not stainless but its all galvanized. I forgot to grab a hose clamp so i'll give zip ties a shot for now. I discovered a can opener opens up the bottom of a paint bucket from HD perfectly. There weren't even any sharp edges to clean up. Chump/lemons BMW 2002 race car in progress in background

brew-005.jpg   spider-002.jpg  
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Old 04-23-2013, 03:45 AM   #18
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Stage one of my wiring diagram. Plan to go automated in the future but this should be more than enough to get me brewing manually. The float switches are element run dry fail safes. This diagram only shows the control side of the relays. Each element will have its black leg controlled by a SSR. There will also be a LED on the 240V side of each element to indicate if the element is energized.

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Old 04-23-2013, 04:49 AM   #19
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Looking great!!!

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Old 04-23-2013, 02:36 PM   #20
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Just to let you know, cobalt bits work best for stainless + plenty of cutting oil.

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