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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > E-HLT Woes
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Old 11-09-2010, 01:42 AM   #1
ihearthops
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Default E-HLT Woes

So I have been working on an E-HLT for the past week -- built from a 15.5g sanke. The entire build has gone pretty flawless, lid cut off, holes drilled for weldless fittings, all fittings installed, weatherproof electrical gang box installed, keg insulated -- pretty much all set.

Except..

I originally had a 1750w element installed in the keg, and to avoid pushing the theoretical limits of the 15 amp circuit I will be operating on, I decided to back down to a 1500w and air on the side of caution. The only problem I noticed with the 1500w element is that the 1" gasket/SS nut I purchased from bargainfittings.com won't thread on the element, regardless of the methods I try -- it's almost like it's just a tad short.

On to my question. I can (with some elbow grease) get the gasket/nut to thread on the reverse side (the side that doesn't have the groove for the o-ring) -- any reason this wouldn't be a good idea? Assuming of course this is my only option. I have yet to water test the fittings (will do tomorrow), but assuming all is well from a water test perspective, is there any reason I CAN'T use the other end of the nut to compress the o-ring?

I completly understand this is me being wayyyy overly paranoid, but since i'm playing with water+electricity, I wanted to make sure i'm crossing all my T's and dotting the I's -- the build has gone great aside from this one little aggrevation.

Thoughts?

Thanks in advance -- this forum has been my motivation/inspiration for all of my projects!

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Old 11-09-2010, 01:54 AM   #2
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If you don't use an silicon ring on the inside you can swap the nut.

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Old 11-09-2010, 01:58 AM   #3
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I'm definately using a silicone o-ring on the inside, I just was only able to get the nut to thread on the element (with o-ring installed) using the side of the nut that WASN'T the grooved side made for o-ring contact -- if that makes sense.

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Old 11-09-2010, 02:19 AM   #4
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Here are a few pics of the finished product. The last picture shows the "reverse" connection for the o-ring/ss nut I was talking about.







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Old 11-09-2010, 03:35 AM   #5
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Are you using the stock / standard gasket on the outside as well? Can't tell from the pictures, but if you are, not sure you will need the silicone o-ring on the inside.

The real test in any event is, does it leak? If not I would suggest heating away.

Insulation looks great. Did you use reflectix? If so, what kind of tape?

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Old 11-09-2010, 03:43 AM   #6
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Yep -- its 4 layers of Reflectix and High Temp (200 deg. F) 3M Duct Tape.

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Old 11-09-2010, 03:48 AM   #7
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You mention using the rubber gasket that comes with the water heater elements -- do most people ditch that gasket and just use the silicone o-ring/nut on the inside? If so, that may explain my issue. I was under the impression people generally went with both when attaching to a keggle.

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Old 11-09-2010, 06:45 AM   #8
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Remove the standard rubber and replace it with the silicon ring and a washer for the spacing. You will only have the nut on the inside everything else is on the outside.

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Old 11-09-2010, 07:12 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by renevdb View Post
Remove the standard rubber and replace it with the silicon ring and a washer for the spacing. You will only have the nut on the inside everything else is on the outside.
I run the stock gasket on the outside, and just the nut on the inside, no o-ring. If you use the o-ring instead of the stock gasket, you should put it on the inside where the grooved nut can keep it captive as you tighten. There usually isn't enough thread to use both. I like using the stock gasket, since that's what it was designed for and it works excellently without requiring a seal along the threads as you would with the o-ring.
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Old 11-09-2010, 06:29 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klyph View Post
I run the stock gasket on the outside, and just the nut on the inside, no o-ring. If you use the o-ring instead of the stock gasket, you should put it on the inside where the grooved nut can keep it captive as you tighten. There usually isn't enough thread to use both. I like using the stock gasket, since that's what it was designed for and it works excellently without requiring a seal along the threads as you would with the o-ring.
In both cases you would place it on the outside, you use a washer where the silicon ring fits inside so you can tighten it. See picture from TheElectricBrewery.com

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