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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > e-Brewery Control Panel Project/Conversion from Propane to Electric
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Old 03-02-2012, 08:10 PM   #21
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Wahoo! Got some more parts!



And I'm trying out my control panel layout.



Gonna have to move things down a bit, but otherwise, it'll work.

It's going to be a busy weekend.

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Old 03-06-2012, 03:26 PM   #22
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What SSR's did you end up getting?

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Old 03-08-2012, 05:48 AM   #23
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What SSR's did you end up getting?
I'm going with Crydom SSR's. I'm getting them a local surplus electronics shop for about $10 for the 40 amp version. $12 for the 75 amp version.
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Old 03-08-2012, 05:49 AM   #24
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I think I've figured out the inside of my control panel.

220V 50A input coming in from the lower left hand side. Ground and Neutral drop out toward the bottom to the terminal blocks. L1 and L2 rise on up to the top to the terminal blocks there.

L1 and L2 then feed into the breakers. Those are:
120V/15A for contractors, PIDs, pumps, illuminated switches, etc
220V/25A for HLT element (4500W)
220V/10A for RIMS tube element (2000W)
220V/25A for BK element (4500W)

All the 220V then flows to the contactors. These are controlled via the green illuminated pushbutton switches on the front of the door which actuate the 120v coil that closes the contacts.
The 110V flows to the red DIN rail mounted terminal blocks. From there it is distributed to fuse blocks and the components.

The wire management strip is there to manage wire flow from the components on the door to the components mounted to the back plane and to keep it all neat and tidy.

I've altered my plans to allow for an additional 120v/15a duplex outlet. This is being used for a future HLT stirrer and an aux power outlet. I.e. - a place to charge my cell phone and/or laptop.

So what do you think?

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Old 03-08-2012, 08:48 PM   #25
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Paul,

Do you have a link or part number for those terminal blocks?

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Old 03-08-2012, 09:56 PM   #26
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Paul,

Do you have a link or part number for those terminal blocks?
Which ones?

The large ones (marked L1, L2, etc) are Altech CDB6/2. I got them from Mouser and their number is 845-CDB6/2. They had 4 left last I checked. $8.39 ea. You can get these in a bunch of colors, but mouser does not keep them in stock.

The larger ones with the red LED in it is a fuse block. Mouser part number 845-CSFL4UL/110. $3.11

The other terminal blocks are 845-CTS4U-N (grey), 845-CTS4U-N/R (red), and 845-CTS4U-N/Y (yellow).

Mouser has Altechs PDF's of these. I also bought jumpers, end plates, marking tags, and end blocks.

In the search field at Mouser.com, enter any of the part numbers above.
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Old 03-11-2012, 06:55 AM   #27
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More progress. I got all of the holes cut in the controller cabinet and all of the outlets, heat sinks, ssrs, lights, PIDS, switches, etc all mounted.

The first hole in the box was a big one for the heat sinks. I had no idea fiberglass could dull a jigsaw blade so quickly.


Looks like the heat sinks will fit just fine.


The holes for the 120v and 220v outlets were easy to cut. From left to right, Pump outlets, HLT, RIMS, and BK outlets.


This is the extra outlet I added. The top half is switched from the panel (perhaps to use for an HLT stirrer?) and the bottom half is always hot.


The final mock up. I also added a PID power switch and 3 element activity lights. They'll turn on when that particular element has power. Blingy? Maybe.


Once you cut the first hole, all the other holes are easy...


All front panel components installed.


Backside of the door pic.


That's all for now.

Next weekend - wiring and unit testing.

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Old 03-20-2012, 07:09 AM   #28
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Paint and some wiring completed.

The painted panel. I used Rustoleum Hammered finish dark bronze. I think it looks real nice.


Start of the wiring. At this point the SSR's are half wired, the aux outlet, and pushbutton switch for it are also wired.


Close-up of SSR and breakers.


Panel with all illuminated pushbutton switches turned on.


Pic of the 120v wiring. There's more here than there is for the 240v components.


I've got some 120v running into the panel so I'm able to test the switches, outlets, PIDs, etc as I go.

Next up will be wiring the PIDs, element pilot lights, alarms, timer resets, 240v outlets, and the Emergency Stop switch. I just realized tonight I had not plan the location for the temperature probe disconnects. I'm losing it.....

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Old 03-29-2012, 06:17 AM   #29
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Almost done!

Shot of the front of the CP. PID/Timer combos working just fine.


The backside of the front door. There's been a lot of wiring done. Still need to wire up the element pilot lights and test that functionality. Need to get the 220v in first though before I can test that.


Inside the CP. I really like the DIN mounted components. It makes for a clean install. This is mostly cleaned up. Stray wiring there is a hacked extension cord for the 120v to test with and some wires for the 220v pilot light test.


Close up of the wiring bundle. Wire ties are your friend!


So just a couple of other things to finish up. Did you notice the QD's for the temp probes? Neither did I.

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Old 04-03-2012, 06:17 PM   #30
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Subscribed. Cant see pics right now, but sounds like an interesting build!

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