Get your HBT Growlers, Shirts and Membership before the Rush!


Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > Dual 2000W 120V Recirculating eBIAB Build
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 01-14-2013, 08:51 PM   #1
russki
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Chicagoland, IL
Posts: 137
Liked 10 Times on 9 Posts
Likes Given: 3

Default Dual 2000W 120V Recirculating eBIAB Build

Hello!

Long time lurker, first time poster here! I've been brewing with electric for about a year now using a 32 qt electric turkey fryer and a 1500W heatstick I built to supplement the weak 1650W element. This works great for my modified BIAB routine, but I wanted something bigger, better, and shinier!

I took my inspiration from the following (and countless other) threads:
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/how...kettle-304914/
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/110...atches-341219/

I'm using P-J's 2-element 120V diagram that was posted in one of the above threads, and have to say, P-J, you're awesome!



For my build, I'm using a 62qt Bayou Classic SS Pot with a steamer basket (conveniently sold to me by another HBT member), all SS camlock fittings from BargainFittings, a GreatBrewEh pump, and DudaDiesel 20-plate chiller. For the control panel, I'm using the Auber project box, SYL-2352 PID, and a mix of switchgear from Auber and eBrewSupply. For heating elements, I'm using 2000W SS elements from BostonHeatingSupply.

Plumbing diagram:


Just finished my controller yesterday! It all fits in a small Auber project box with a couple modifications.

A few photos of the build:


Front panel punched:


Modifications to the back (actually ended up flipping the handy box around later):


Trial fitting the insides:


Contactors and terminal strip mounted; e-stop on top:


Starting to wire:


All wired! Ready to button up:


And here are the finished pictures. Tested all functions with a light bulb - everything is working!


It's Alive!!!


From the back:


And a side view:


Next on the list: kettle modifications.

__________________
russki is offline
Inkleg Likes This 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-14-2013, 09:12 PM   #2
tyfernandez
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: chicago, IL
Posts: 66
Liked 3 Times on 2 Posts

Default

Awesome build. I'm currently working on a similar setup, although I think I might remove one of a contactors and one of the switches and just control both elements with one contactor and one switch.

Couple questions for you,

1. How difficult was fitting everything in that box? It looks rather tight.

2. Where did you get the Heat Sink?

3. How hot does it get with both SSRs on it? Do you think it should be sufficient at cooling? I'm considering getting a heatsink to cover most of the top of the same case for the SSRs.

__________________
tyfernandez is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-14-2013, 09:20 PM   #3
russki
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Chicagoland, IL
Posts: 137
Liked 10 Times on 9 Posts
Likes Given: 3

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tyfernandez View Post
Awesome build. I'm currently working on a similar setup, although I think I might remove one of a contactors and one of the switches and just control both elements with one contactor and one switch.

Couple questions for you,

1. How difficult was fitting everything in that box? It looks rather tight.

2. Where did you get the Heat Sink?

3. How hot does it get with both SSRs on it? Do you think it should be sufficient at cooling? I'm considering getting a heatsink to cover most of the top of the same case for the SSRs.
It was pretty tight - but I didn't find it overly difficult to fit everything in. A "bump-out" outlet box really helped.

I got the heatsink from eBay - I had to cut about an inch off so it would fit. Then just drilled and tapped mounting holes. I don't know how hot it's going to get just yet, since I only tested with a light bulb. I'm thinking for running at 50% load (20A through a 40A SSR), this heatsink should be sufficient.
__________________
russki is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-17-2013, 09:40 PM   #4
russki
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Chicagoland, IL
Posts: 137
Liked 10 Times on 9 Posts
Likes Given: 3

Default

Made some additional progress as I'm waiting for the last few pieces to arrive. More pictures!

Kettle punched!


View from the inside:


Bulkhead and ball valve installed:


One of the elements' mounting boxes:


Had to plug an extra hole that I decided not to use:


Everything is mounted and leak-tested! There's another element box on the other side:


And that's what inside looks like:


I waterproofed element boxes with silicone on the inside, once it dries, I just have to wire the cords, and we're in business!

russki is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-17-2013, 10:00 PM   #5
nutty_gnome
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
nutty_gnome's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Princeton, Nj
Posts: 1,147
Liked 55 Times on 46 Posts
Likes Given: 15

Default

I'm probably showing my ignorance... but why didn't you go with a bigger SSR for each circuit? Wouldn't that eliminate the need for the contacters?

Edit - let me rephrase after I looked at the diagram again.... Why do you need the contacters? I thought the SSR could handle switching the power on and off to the elements.

__________________

N_G
It could be worse.

nutty_gnome is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-17-2013, 10:09 PM   #6
russki
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Chicagoland, IL
Posts: 137
Liked 10 Times on 9 Posts
Likes Given: 3

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nutty_gnome View Post
I'm probably showing my ignorance... but why didn't you go with a bigger SSR for each circuit? Wouldn't that eliminate the need for the contacters?

Edit - let me rephrase after I looked at the diagram again.... Why do you need the contacters? I thought the SSR could handle switching the power on and off to the elements.
They allow me to control power to the elements using lighted switches from Auber. Since these switches are only rated at 10A, they operate contactors' coils, which in turn switch power to the elements. Basically a safety feature, because SSRs can fail in a closed state.
russki is offline
gpack Likes This 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-18-2013, 02:57 AM   #7
TJTHEBEST
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Arcata, Ca
Posts: 149
Liked 3 Times on 3 Posts
Likes Given: 2

Default

Looking good!

__________________
TJTHEBEST is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-18-2013, 02:58 AM   #8
Inkleg
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Inkleg's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Lilburn, GA
Posts: 441
Liked 270 Times on 163 Posts
Likes Given: 108

Default

Nice build russki, can't wait to see pictures of it in action.

__________________
Inkleg is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-18-2013, 03:22 AM   #9
russki
Feedback Score: 2 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Chicagoland, IL
Posts: 137
Liked 10 Times on 9 Posts
Likes Given: 3

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Inkleg View Post
Nice build russki, can't wait to see pictures of it in action.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TJTHEBEST View Post
Looking good!
I see you guys found my thread on HBT
__________________
Dual 2000W 120V Recirculating eBIAB Build
russki is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-18-2013, 03:49 AM   #10
iijakii
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,517
Liked 56 Times on 47 Posts
Likes Given: 153

Default

Looks great. I'd love to see a shot of it with the basket in if you don't mind.

__________________
iijakii is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply



Quick Reply
Message:
Options
Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Dual 120v 2000w recirculating EBIAB Build tyfernandez Electric Brewing 25 03-22-2013 03:32 AM
120V, 20 amps, 2000w? Airborneguy Electric Brewing 12 12-30-2012 04:44 PM
120V 2000W heatstick V1.0 Malric Other 6 12-30-2012 10:16 AM
WTB (Want To Buy) - 120V 2000W element Gabrew For Sale 0 09-24-2012 10:47 PM
My 5+ Gallon 120v eBIAB Rig (Build / Pics) seatbelt123 Electric Brewing 11 08-22-2012 03:28 AM



Newest Threads

LATEST SPONSOR DEALS