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Old 01-04-2013, 03:40 PM   #1
tyfernandez
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Default Dual 120v 2000w recirculating EBIAB Build

Okay I think I've read enough of this forum to finally start my own build.

I've modified one of PJ's diagrams(hope that's okay PJ) to my likings. My goal is to fit everything into the Auber 1/16 Din Case. I'm going for compactness and ease of transport. This will be stored in a closet in my condo when not used. so space is at a premium.



Here is the diagram. Originally there were two switches and two contactors between the SSR and Elements. I simply removed one of each and used one contactor to switch both of the loads. I believe I've "wired" this correctly. Please chime in if I haven't

I wish I could go down to one SSR, but i don't believe that is possible with two separate 120v circuits I looked at SSRD's but couldn't find one with a reasonable price.

I'm planning on getting the 44qt Bayou Classic Stockpot with basket. I think this should be sufficient for 5 gallon and 2.5 gallon batches. I don't see my self making anything larger as I simply don't have the space to store it.

I'll continue to update this throughout the build but hopefully making the bulk of the purchase in the next week or so. I'm going to try and document the build as best as possible. Hopefully someone else can benefit from any mistake I'll probably end up making.

Thanks everyone!

Ty

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Old 01-04-2013, 03:55 PM   #2
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Something looks off to me about the Contactor ill. power button and the element #2 wiring.

Also why not go with only one SSR? Use the both elements to get up to mash temperature, then just turn off element 2 (which would be at 100%), using element 1 with the PID and pump for maintaining mash temp. To go from Mash to boil, again turn on element 2 until boil is reached. Then use element 1 in manual mode to maintain the boil.

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Old 01-04-2013, 04:01 PM   #3
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Your neutral wire only goes between element #2 and the LED. Not completing the circuit.

As I'm new to this and not an electrician I could be wrong.

Chris

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Old 01-04-2013, 04:21 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goybar View Post
Something looks off to me about the Contactor ill. power button and the element #2 wiring.

Also why not go with only one SSR? Use the both elements to get up to mash temperature, then just turn off element 2 (which would be at 100%), using element 1 with the PID and pump for maintaining mash temp. To go from Mash to boil, again turn on element 2 until boil is reached. Then use element 1 in manual mode to maintain the boil.
Yea I'm really not sure about wiring the contactor, hopefully someone with some electrical experience can chime in.

I'd rather have both elements under control of the PID. Also I don't think one element can sustain a good rolling boil so I would need to constantly switch the second element on and off. I currently have an e kettle with two elements without a control panel and this is the case.
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Old 01-04-2013, 04:38 PM   #5
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I think it should be wired like this:



Chris

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Old 01-05-2013, 05:10 PM   #6
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That seems to make sense. I updated the diagram with the change.



Also is it worthwhile to have a fuse for the pump? Would a 2-amp slow burning fuse be sufficient for a march/chugger?


Ty

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Old 02-10-2013, 01:04 AM   #7
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Well after it seems like forever I was able to complete my control box. I'm kind of amazed that everything powered on fine. I personally will be happy to never see a unibit or hole punch ever again!

I think if i had to do it all again I would have gotten a plastic enclosure just to make cutting easier. I butchered my box, it's a good thing I'm not judged on the aesthetics. I'm hoping to finish up my pot tomorrow.

Here's the box. I ended up mounting the heat sinks on top to save space for everything else. There are a few similar builds to this floating around the forum but mine differs slightly with the heat sink placement, the powercon connectors and I only am using one contactor to switch both loads.



I went with toggle switches and pilot lights. The top switch is the PID power, then Heat, then pump.



Here is the outlet for the pump. I'm using a pump similar to the greatbreweh pumps.



Here is where the power comes in and goes out, as well as the RTD plug. You can also see my butchering with the dremel. I originally was going to use speak on connectors for everything but ended up using the powercon connectors. So far they seem great. They twist to lock and there separate plugs and receptacles for power in and power out.


I wish I could personally thank everyone in this forum as I never would have even thought about this or thought I could put this together without all of you. So cheers to you!

I'll post more pics once i finish up the pot.

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Old 02-12-2013, 01:29 AM   #8
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Here is the pot. I just finished it up and auto tuned. I cannot wait to brew now.



I wrapped the silicone tubing in some anti kink coil as the tube seemed to keep collapsing on itself near the top. It seems to help, but probably not the best solution. It was only a couple bucks though so probably not a bad investment.

I potted the elements in deep one gang boxes and put the element through the face plate. I noticed that the Powercon connectors fit almost perfectly through the holes (3/4 inch) in the box, so one less hole for me to punch.



Here is the profile shot. I first though these would be too big as I orginally had them in extension boxes, but barely have noticed them so far.

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Old 02-12-2013, 02:30 AM   #9
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Nice build! A very uncanny resemblance to mine How hot do your heatsinks get? I had to add a fan to mine, otherwise they were getting very hot.

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Dual 2000W 120V Recirculating eBIAB Build
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Old 02-12-2013, 02:50 AM   #10
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I haven't tried brewing yet with them, but during the auto tune and just general playing with the system they would get warm to the touch. I could easily keep my hands right on them the entire time and I don't think it would ever burn me.

I seem to just be having problems getting my pump to prime well. Any tricks?

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