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Old 06-18-2013, 04:03 PM   #11
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Then what is it?
It's somewhere around 125 watts/sq in which puts it close to a HWD element. After buying one I found that the engineering department at Camco decided they'd work just as well in water heaters if they made them shorter, but they didn't change the label description.
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Old 06-18-2013, 07:55 PM   #12
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Yes, it is one of those elements and it was purchased on amazon. I do full boils but I have to occassionaly top off to 5 gallons. The elements are positioned where I couldnt do any less than 3 gallons as it would expose the elements if the wort got anymore concentrated on that.

I have very limited electrical knowledge. I can install new outlets and few other things lol so I have never tested the voltage or amperage.

Thanks, I apprecaite you feedback.

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Old 06-18-2013, 07:58 PM   #13
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I have definitely had problems with scorching using elements with too high a power density.

Occasionally I have scorched a particularly sticky wort containing adjuncts like oats that have residual glucans.

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Old 06-18-2013, 08:25 PM   #14
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My guess is you're getting grain/husks into the boil?? I just PBW & wipe my elements down and have no problems.

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Old 06-19-2013, 03:43 AM   #15
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I've been boiling my batches using a 5500W element from Home Depot with no problems. It is one of the fold-back types, sold as LWD, but I would guess it's still a pretty high watt density when the heat is turned up.

One thing I can think of.. how close is the element to the side or bottom of your kettle? Mine goes straight in the side, and is 3-4 inches above the bottom. There is a really strong flow of wort in the kettle and past the element during the boil that would tend to prevent heat from building up in one spot.

I do have to clean off a thin coating of sludge from the element after a batch, but it's the same stuff that I was cleaning off the bottom of my old (propane) kettle before.

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Old 06-19-2013, 04:07 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AnOldUR View Post
It's somewhere around 125 watts/sq in which puts it close to a HWD element. After buying one I found that the engineering department at Camco decided they'd work just as well in water heaters if they made them shorter, but they didn't change the label description.
Yeah, I love how they think they can change a pretty big technical attribute of the product and leave the pictures and stated length the same.
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Old 06-19-2013, 09:05 PM   #17
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I haven't built mine yet (still paying for wedding), but all of the research I've done points to using a ripple ulwd element.


image-3106368656.jpg

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002Y...1675605&sr=8-6

Not sure if it will work with your setup, but here's the link on amazon. This is what they recommend in the kal clone setup.

As an aside, I've tried a few batches with my electric turkey fryer as well - never comes out quite right. The thermostat isn't great, since it's meant for deep frying, and it caramelizes the heck out of wort.

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Old 06-22-2013, 07:05 PM   #18
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That would work if he was running 220/240v, but he is on 120v.
He has 2 x 1500w elements right now, and IIRC if you're running a 240v element on 120v you have to divide by 1/4. In which case he would need at least a 6000w element, which i'm not sure if they make.

i've been running 2 x 2000w watt elements in my keggle for months now and many batches and haven't ran into that issue.. i'm almost wondering if you're plugging into an outlet that isn't quite the right voltage or something... have you tried a different set of outlets? or even at some place else? see if your local brew shop will let you setup! mine has let me a few times for different occasions.

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Old 06-22-2013, 07:41 PM   #19
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Quote:
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. . . if you're running a 240v element on 120v you have to divide by 1/4 . . .
6000 / .25 = 24000 Watts
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Old 06-22-2013, 09:24 PM   #20
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Do you use malt extract?

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